This is a very nice and neat way – and an easy one too – to cast on a number of stitches at the end of a row. You will need a crochet hook of about the same size as the needle you are using.

Work the row to end. Place the needle in your left hand so that the other side is facing you. If you worked a right side row, the wrong side should be facing and if you worked a wrong side row the right side should be facing.


1  2
Insert the crochet hook           Catch the yarn and pull a loop
in the last stitch on the             (= 1 stitch on the crochet hook)
left needle.


1b  2b 3b
Bring the yarn under and        Bring the crochet hook in      Pull a loop through the loop 
behind the needle.                    front of the needle and         on the crochet hook.
                                                pick up the yarn.                    (= 1 stitch more on the
…                                                                                                  needle  and 1 stitch on
…                                                                                                  the crochet hook)                                  

Repeat these 3 steps until you have cast on the desired number of stitches minus 1.

4 5
…                                               Place the stitch from the
…                                               crochet hook on the needle.

Tata, finished. Turn your work and start the row.

Now, this is for working back and forth.


In the round.

If – for example – you are working a pullover top down and you need to add stitches at the neckline to close it and start working in the round: cast on the right number of stitches, knit the first stitch from the stitches you need to join to and pass the 2nd stitch on the right needle over the knitted stitch and off the needle.

Voilà you can start working in the round.

. . . Xol . . .

Xol means ‘heart’ in wolof: the language spoken in Senegal and part of West-Africa. It is pronounced as khol, (as the X in Greek) not as ksolxol met pompom

Xol is a color block beanie with a large intarsia motif: charts for a large heart or a flower are included and if you want something else, a blank chart is added to make your own motif.

It is worked bottom up and seamlessly in the round, the length can easily be adjusted to make a beanie or a more slouchy hat. A large pompom finishes the hat. (Instructions for making a pompom in the pattern) BTW here is a link to some very funny pompoms

Intarsia in the round is not as difficult as it sounds. A richly illustrated tutorial is included in a separate pdf.

available for size KIDS, Adult S, M and L
head circumference: 48-53 / 51-56 / 54-59 / 57-63 cm (19-21” / 20-22” / 22-23.25” / 23.25-25”)

finished measurements (brim): 43 / 46 / 49.5 / 53 cm (17” / 18” / 19.5” / 21”)

finished measurements (body): 46 / 49 cm / 52.5 / 56 cm (18” / 19.5” / 20.5” / 22”)

Finished height (without the pompom) = 20/21/26/27 cm (9/9.5/10.5/10.75”) but can easily be adjusted

What you’ll need
fingering / 4 ply
Yardage for the hat without the pompom
MC1 (main color1: bottom): ± 80 m / 90 yards
MC2 (main color2: top): ± 70 m / 77 yards
CC (contrasting color): ± 30 m / 33 yards

3.25 mm (US 3) circular needle
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle
cardboard and scissor to make the pompom
tapestry needle

Check it out here

. . . slanted . . .

This was a real challenge and experiment in shaping. I started with the large shawl collar in 2 different rib patterns.stripe mod 7-.

Why not continue to knit sideways ? With the ribbing, maybe ? Not all of them, for sure. I wanted the body to be mainly stockinette stitch. Only a few ribbing sections than ?

As by miracle everything fell in it’s place when I continued the body. The slanted 2/2 ribbing at the bottom and at the top to shape the arm opening. It all seemed perfect, haha.
Can’t believe I came up with this construction. The body is closed at the back with contrasting 3 needle bind off’s.

stripe mod 9 -

stripe mod 4-

A slight A-line at the bottom shaped by working a few short rows.

Finally the sleeves are worked top down in the round.

Row gauge is quite important for this project as it is worked sideways. If you should make this with Superwash yarn like Wollmeise Pure for example, the cardigan will be longer (which is not too bad, I think). You can see some examples on the pattern page

Sizes: XS, S, M, L , XL, XXL
finished measurements (chest): 35.5 / 38.5 / 42.5 / 46.5 / 50.5 / 54.5 “ (90 / 98 / 108 / 118 / 128 / 138 cm )
Intended to be worn with of ± 12.5 to 20 cm / 5 to 8” of positive ease

What you’ll need
MC: ± 1250, 1350, 1470, 1600, 1750, 1880m (1370, 1500, 1620, 1750, 1920, 2060 yards) of fingering weight / 4 ply

CC: a left over of fingering weight / 4 ply
± 100 m / 110 yards

3,5 mm (US 4) circular needle
3,5 mm (US 4) straight needles
4,5 mm (US 7) needle for the 3 needle bind off
3 mm (US 2 1/2) circular needle for the sleeves
2,5 mm (US 1 1/2) circular needle
17 markers

25 sts and 39 rows stockinette stitch with the middle sized needle (3,5 mm / US 4) = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here