. . . linne tee . . .

Summer is coming, the sun is shining … It is time for skirts and light summer tops …

hello yellow

Hello yellow, my latest pattern has been published yesterday…

Linne tee: a simple, summery tee with an easy lace pattern at the top and bottom. Knit in linen or linen / cotton blend, it is perfect for sunny summer days.

linen mod 1-ridge-

linen back 3+

It is worked seamlessly starting at the top lace section at the back.
Both sleeve caps and the back are worked bottom up at the same time. The edges of the sleeve are worked at the same time in a slip stitch pattern. It slightly pulls in the sleeve caps preventing them from flaring out too much.

detail top

Stitches are put on hold for the back neck and increases are made to shape the V-neck at the front. Once the sleeve caps are finished, the body is worked top down. But first, a few short rows are worked at front and back for a better fit / shape. Then the body is knit in the round and finished with the lace edge at the bottom.

linne mod bottom

Sizes
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements (chest): 31½, 35½, 39½, 43¼, 47¼, 51¼ “ (80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 130 cm)

Intended to be worn with some positive ease or no ease.

What you’ll need
linen ( or cotton or cotton/linen blend)
in sport weight / 5 ply
the yardage is an estimate (the yardage of linen is difficult to calculate: the testers all came out with a different yardage). This is an average:
± 600, 700, 770, 850, 930, 1000 m (660, 770, 850, 930, 1020, 1100 yards)

3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
3.5 mm (US 4) straight needles (optional)
4 mm (US 6) circular needle

crochet hook for the provisional cast-on

6 markers

Gauge (with the smaller needle and blocked)
21 sts and 32 rows in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here
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. . . squared . . .

Oups, I am a bit behind … 2 patterns have been published last month …

Let me present the one I am very proud of: Squared, a casual, oversized pullover with a sporty look and an innovative construction.squared montage dichter
There is no sewing, seaming or intarsia involved. It is based on the same principle as . . . wild rose: the cardigan . . . and . . . Greenhouse knits #6 . . . but it is quite different.

squared mod4

First, the sleeves are worked bottom up (perfect as a giant swatch). Stitches are picked up as you go and put on hold to shape the steps of the ‘squared’ raglan sleeve inset. Then back and front are worked top down with an easy stitch pattern that continues the same idea of the stair shape and forms a waffle* structure.

 

A stair shaped hem finishes the body.

waffle detail

Finally a small rolled neck band is added in a contrasting color.

The pattern has been tech edited by @sue-cat111 on Instagram, Sue-Cat on Ravelry.

squared details montage

Sizes
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements chest: 38½, 42½, 46½, 50, 54, 58 “(98, 108, 118, 124, 138, 148 cm)
Intended to be worn with positive ease (20 to 40 cm / 8 to 16” ). Model is wearing size M with ± 25 cm / 10 “ of positive ease.

What you’ll need
DK weight
MC1 (body)
± 700/780/850/930/1020/1100 m (770/850/930/1020/1120/1200 yards)
MC2 (sleeves)
± 380/400/440/480/520/560 m (420/440/480/530/570/620 yards)
CC: 45 to 90 m ( 50 to 100 yards)
two 4 mm (US 6) circular needles
and straight needles (optional)
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle or double pointed needles
6 markers

Gauge stockinette with larger needle size and blocked: 21 sts and 32 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here

. . . wild rose: the cardigan . . .

The pattern for the cardigan has been released . . . The set of wild roses is complete.

rose babe sleeve

Wild rose is a cardigan with an innovative construction in the same manner as her sister Babe.

There is no sewing, seaming or intarsia involved. First, the sleeves are worked bottom up featuring delicate branches and flowers in stranded colorwork.

rose babe mod 11

Then the body is worked top down with a stretchy, leafy lace stitch pattern. Finally, stitches are picked up to work the button bands. The colorwork is charted only and is bundled in a separate pdf providing more tips on working fair isle and stranded knitting.

Sizes
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements chest: 33, 35½, 39¼, 44, 48, 54¼ “ (84, 90, 100, 112, 122, 138 cm)

Intended to be worn with positive ease (6 to 25 cm / 2½ to 10”). To decide which is the best size for you, measure your high bust (under the armpits) and check also your arm circumference. Model is wearing M with ± 10 cm / 4“ of positive ease.

What you’ll need
fingering / 4ply weight
MC1 (main color of the body) ± 950/1050/1150/1300/1400/1600 m (1050/1150/1260/1450/1550/1750 yards)
MC2 (main color of the sleeves) ± 470/500/550/600/660/750 m (520/550/600/660/720/820 yards)
CC1 (green in the sample): 45 to 90 m ( 50 to 100 yards)
and CC2 (white in the sample): 45 to 90 m (50 to 100 yards)
2.75 mm (US 2) circular needle for the cuffs and buttonbands
two 3.25 mm (US 3) circular needles and straight needles (optional)
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle or double pointed needles to work the sections with the stranded flowers (if necessary)
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle or straight needles to work the bottom part of the body
6 markers
6 buttons (diameter 18 mm / ¾” )

Gauge
stockinette with the 3.25 mm (US 3) needle and blocked: 28 sts and 40 rows
= 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Find out more here

. . . wild roses . . .

Muts met bloem xxx

At this moment, my new design: wild rose cardigan is being testknit here

rose babe sleeve+text-

It features delicate branches with some spring flowers on the sleeves. It is not that easy because as you can see there are three colors per round in the colorwork. There are several techniques to solve that problem and they will be explained in the pattern.

But then, I made a swatch with the same flowers in only two colors to show the effect to my testers…

I don’t like swatching, it feels like a waste of time. The best swatch one can make is a hat, isn’t it ? Never enough hats.

hat

I used three different rests of green yarn from my stash… From a dark bottle green to a fresh yellowish green. And to make the gradient between the two colors I alternated the them in every round … Oh, I love the colors of that hat. The main color is the softest yarn ever. It is Misty Mina form the Natural Collection: 70% Alpaca, 20% Silk, 10% Cashmere goat…

And then I got kinda carried away, haha …wild rose collection-

A hat, a pair of fingerless mitts and a doubled cowl: wild roses collection

wild rose coll mod3-

wild rose coll mod5

Added a crocheted pompom on the hat like this

The four patterns will be collected in an e-book: wild roses. The cardigan will be added when the testknit is finished at the end of the month. Included are  tips on colorwork and fair isle, a tutorial on how to use Jenny’s cast on as a provisional cast on and on how to graft in a separate pdf: **Wild rose tips**.

The e-book is already available now at a discounted price.

Read more about them here, here and here.

. . . spirale . . .

This was great fun to design …

blue

Spirale is a hat worked back and forth at a very tight gauge. It starts at the top with only four stitches gradually getting wider and forming a strip.

spirale 5 ridges straight + wedge

The strip is spiraling down joining as you go with a special technique. It can be worn as is – a long hat – or the brim can be folded back and the top spirals pushed down.

grey inside

It is a a very fun and addictive project.

spirale 4 mod 8+

I made four of them and some of the testers made several too. It has been known that finished hats often disappear…

tomorrow

Sizes
S, M and L: head circumference: 52-56 / 55-59 / 58-63 cm (20½-22” / 21½-23¼” / 23-25”)
finished measurements (brim): 50.5 / 52.5 / 55 cm (19¾” / 20½” / 22”)

mecha spirale montage

What you’ll need
The heavier the yarn weight, the better it keeps its shape.
minimum aran weight / 10 ply (200 m / 220 yards per 100 gr)
to bulky weight (120 m / 130 yards per 100 gr)
± 165 to 230 m / 180 to 250 yards
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle (60 or 80 cm / 24 to 31½ “)
4 removable markers
tapestry needle
Don’t try to make this hat in a DK-weight yarn, unless you pair it with a fingering weight held together – sport or DK weight held double should also work. It really should be a very dense and stiff fabric to keep its shape.

Gauge
23 sts and 22 ridges (= 44 rows) in garter stitch, unblocked
= 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here

. . . blues . . .

# veryslowfashion, started this more than two years ago.

squares in zetel

It is a free pattern from one of my favorite designers: Norah Gaughan. Pattern is: Norah’s Vintage Afghan for Berroco. Here is the project.

I started it with all kinds of ecru, off-white natural yarns that were in my stash: cascade eco, undyed fingering weight yarn held double, unknown European wool, … in natural tints. Every square used a little less than 100 grs of it. Used needle size 5 mm / US 8.
I stopped after 15 squares because it should have taken me one more year to finish it and I had to buy some new yarn. I also thought a smaller afghan would just be perfect to replace the old blanket on the couch. Finished size is now 180 cm x 115 cm (71″ x 45″)

Finally decided I prefer color. Such a pity I didn’t take photos of the undyed squares.
Here are some leftovers to give you an idea of the colors before.

natural colors

Dyed all the 15 squares and 2 extra skeins for the finishing in ‘indigo’ acid dye.
Found a large pot in the Turkish shop around the corner. It is 20 cm high and 28 cm diameter which is about 12 liters. I will be using it only for wool dyeing. The acid dye powder was in my stash for a couple of years. I used the whole 50 grs for a total weight of ± 1600 grs of wool (15 squares + 2 extra 100 gr skeins). That gives about 3,2% of dye stock.
Could do all the dying in two times. I didn’t really measure the dye I added in the first pot. I poured in about half of the dye ‘à vue’. The idea was that he squares would have different shades of blue and that was exactly what it did.

The different wool qualities made for the shading. See the difference in these 2 skeins.

two skeins

I learned that superwash is much paler than the rustic wools. In one of the squares it is really obvious: I used 2 strands of fingering weight together and one of them is ‘superwash’.

superwash + rustic 2
I added 50 ml vinegar per 100 grs in the pot before adding the wool. If I would have wanted more solid colors it would have been better to heat dye and wool first and leave to simmer for 30 minutes and THEN add the vinegar.

squares in zetel 2
I am quite pleased with the color (I expected it to be more very dark ‘indigo’ though). It will be perfect with our black couch.

Lay out of all the squares …

indigo afgan kleiner

They are all a bit different in size. Hope it will be better after joining. Think I will use an I-cord-join: first pick up & knit sts at both sides that need to be joined, then cast on 3 sts, slip the 3 sts back to left needle, k2tog, k1, ssk, repeat until all picked up stitches have been worked, bind off.

Still had some yarn left so picked up & knit stitches all around and finished it in moss stitch with an I-cord bind off.

I-cord + moss stitchThese blue shades are very difficult to capture, they have something greenish over them…

 

Fo afghan

Tada, finished, washed and dry … Let the cold come …

FO afgan 2