. . . spirale . . .

This was great fun to design …

blue

Spirale is a hat worked back and forth at a very tight gauge. It starts at the top with only four stitches gradually getting wider and forming a strip.

spirale 5 ridges straight + wedge

The strip is spiraling down joining as you go with a special technique. It can be worn as is – a long hat – or the brim can be folded back and the top spirals pushed down.

grey inside

It is a a very fun and addictive project.

spirale 4 mod 8+

I made four of them and some of the testers made several too. It has been known that finished hats often disappear…

tomorrow

Sizes
S, M and L: head circumference: 52-56 / 55-59 / 58-63 cm (20½-22” / 21½-23¼” / 23-25”)
finished measurements (brim): 50.5 / 52.5 / 55 cm (19¾” / 20½” / 22”)

mecha spirale montage

What you’ll need
The heavier the yarn weight, the better it keeps its shape.
minimum aran weight / 10 ply (200 m / 220 yards per 100 gr)
to bulky weight (120 m / 130 yards per 100 gr)
± 165 to 230 m / 180 to 250 yards
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle (60 or 80 cm / 24 to 31½ “)
4 removable markers
tapestry needle
Don’t try to make this hat in a DK-weight yarn, unless you pair it with a fingering weight held together – sport or DK weight held double should also work. It really should be a very dense and stiff fabric to keep its shape.

Gauge
23 sts and 22 ridges (= 44 rows) in garter stitch, unblocked
= 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here

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. . . blues . . .

# veryslowfashion, started this more than two years ago.

squares in zetel

It is a free pattern from one of my favorite designers: Norah Gaughan. Pattern is: Norah’s Vintage Afghan for Berroco. Here is the project.

I started it with all kinds of ecru, off-white natural yarns that were in my stash: cascade eco, undyed fingering weight yarn held double, unknown European wool, … in natural tints. Every square used a little less than 100 grs of it. Used needle size 5 mm / US 8.
I stopped after 15 squares because it should have taken me one more year to finish it and I had to buy some new yarn. I also thought a smaller afghan would just be perfect to replace the old blanket on the couch. Finished size is now 180 cm x 115 cm (71″ x 45″)

Finally decided I prefer color. Such a pity I didn’t take photos of the undyed squares.
Here are some leftovers to give you an idea of the colors before.

natural colors

Dyed all the 15 squares and 2 extra skeins for the finishing in ‘indigo’ acid dye.
Found a large pot in the Turkish shop around the corner. It is 20 cm high and 28 cm diameter which is about 12 liters. I will be using it only for wool dyeing. The acid dye powder was in my stash for a couple of years. I used the whole 50 grs for a total weight of ± 1600 grs of wool (15 squares + 2 extra 100 gr skeins). That gives about 3,2% of dye stock.
Could do all the dying in two times. I didn’t really measure the dye I added in the first pot. I poured in about half of the dye ‘à vue’. The idea was that he squares would have different shades of blue and that was exactly what it did.

The different wool qualities made for the shading. See the difference in these 2 skeins.

two skeins

I learned that superwash is much paler than the rustic wools. In one of the squares it is really obvious: I used 2 strands of fingering weight together and one of them is ‘superwash’.

superwash + rustic 2
I added 50 ml vinegar per 100 grs in the pot before adding the wool. If I would have wanted more solid colors it would have been better to heat dye and wool first and leave to simmer for 30 minutes and THEN add the vinegar.

squares in zetel 2
I am quite pleased with the color (I expected it to be more very dark ‘indigo’ though). It will be perfect with our black couch.

Lay out of all the squares …

indigo afgan kleiner

They are all a bit different in size. Hope it will be better after joining. Think I will use an I-cord-join: first pick up & knit sts at both sides that need to be joined, then cast on 3 sts, slip the 3 sts back to left needle, k2tog, k1, ssk, repeat until all picked up stitches have been worked, bind off.

Still had some yarn left so picked up & knit stitches all around and finished it in moss stitch with an I-cord bind off.

I-cord + moss stitchThese blue shades are very difficult to capture, they have something greenish over them…

 

Fo afghan

Tada, finished, washed and dry … Let the cold come …

FO afgan 2

. . . pythagoras’ mitts . . .

Matching fingerless mitts to go with Pythagoras’ beret. mitts mod 6
Pythagoras’ mitts are worked bottom up starting with a Latvian two-color cast on. Written instructions are included and a photo tutorial can be found in the separate pdf. It’s a lovely way to start colorwork, but you can use another cast on method if you prefer.

mitts

A special kind of increases is used to shape the thumb gusset.

mitts mod 4

Sizes
Finished measurement hand circumference: S-M, L: 17 cm / 6¾”, 20 cm / 7¾” to fit hand circumference: 18 to 19 cm / 7 to 7½ “, 20 to 22 cm / 7¾ to 8¾ “

What you’ll need
sport weight
± 240 to 270 m / 260 to 300 yards
(half of each color)
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle
crochet hook in the same size as the needle
for the Latvian two-color cast on
2 markers
tapestry needle

Gauge
28 sts and 39 rows in stranded pattern
(see page 2) = 10 x 10 cm / 4” x 4”

Check it out here

They will be free until December 25, midnight (Brussels time), no coupon code needed

mitts+painting

. . . buccia . . .

Buccia, pattern number 100

parmi mod 2

**Buccia** is the Italian word for ‘bark’. The cable stitch pattern reminds me of the bark of an old, old oak tree. It is worked bottom up and seamlessly in the round starting with a clever and neat way to make a tubular cast on in a contrasting color. The ridge is also worked in CC. Pretty decreases continue the ‘bark’ effect and shape the crown.

**Sizes**
available for size: KIDS, S, M and L
head circumference: 48-53 cm / 52-56 cm / 55-59 cm / 58-63 cm (19-21” / 20½-22” / 21½-23¼” / 23-25”)

**What you’ll need**
worsted / 10 ply or fingering / 4 ply held double
Yardage for the hat
± 170 m / 185 yards (if you use fingering weight yarn held double you will need to double the yardage)
1 or 2 leftovers in contrasting colors
4 mm (US 6) circular needle
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle
cable needle
crochet hook for the provisional cast on
marker
tapestry needle

**Stitches**
twisted ribbing 1/1 (in the round): (k1 tbl, p1)
cable stitch pattern

**Gauge**
23 sts and 30 rows in stitch pattern, blocked: = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”) with the larger needle

**Techniques used**: tubular cast on

Read about it here

parmi mod

To celebrate the 100th pattern, there is a promotion on all individual patterns (no e-books). Fill in the coupon code 100 and get 50% off until December 25 midnight …montage real 100b+shadow

Find all 100 patterns here

. . . dove stone . . .

A new hat called Dove stone.

dove stone 3

Well, not so new. It took me a year to write the pattern, haha.

But it is pattern  99

**Dove stone** is a hat worked bottom up and seamlessly in the round. It starts with a clever and neat way to make a tubular cast on in a contrasting color. It has a cable stitch pattern that gradually decreases to shape the crown. It can be made as a ‘light’ slouchy hat or blocked on a plate for a beret shape.

**Sizes**
available for size: S, M and L
head circumference: 52-56 cm / 55-59 cm / 58-63 cm (20½-22” / 21½-23¼” / 23-25”)

**What you’ll need**
DK / 8 ply
Yardage for the hat
± 150 m / 165 yards
small leftovers in a contrasting color for the cast on and the pompom.
4 mm (US 6) circular needle
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle
crochet hook for the provisional cast on
cardboard and scissors to make a pompom or tassels (optional)
marker
tapestry needle

**Stitches**
twisted ribbing 1/1 (in the round): (k1 tbl, p1)
stitch pattern

**Gauge**
25 sts and 30 rows in stitch pattern, slightly stretched: = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”) with the larger needle

**Techniques used**: tubular cast on
pompom, tassels or something different

3-dove-stone

Check it out here

how to … my favorite tubular cast on …

Have you – like me – tried a few methods to work a tubular cast on ? And did your yarn get tangled and maybe your fingers too ? Well, mine do. Holding needle and yarn in a delicate position in one hand trying to scroll down – or back if it is a videa – to see the next image from the tutorial with the other hand. A ‘tour de force’ and every time the cast on is a real mess …

Or – working with waste yarn – did you cut the waste yarn but also your main yarn ? :-/ I did …

tubular cast on cover

Here is one that is – at least for me – easy and neat: my favorite tubular cast on for a 1/1 ribbing. It is a very easy-peasy, non fiddly way using waste yarn, a combination of the crochet cast on – my favorite – and the way I learned to work a tubular cast on a long time ago… …

I stumbled on this method by surprise. I wanted to knit me a hat and I had just written a blog post (here) …
1 + 1 made 2

You will need some waste yarn in a contrasting color and a crochet hook in the same size as the needle. Go up a needle size for the provisional crochet cast on. It is easier to work with a larger needle and the cast on will be stretchier.

tubular 1tubular 2

tubular 3tubular 4That’s it for the provisional cast on. Next the working yarn will be introduced. The first rows are worked back and forth – even if you will be joining to knit in the round later to make a hat or a sock – because it is easier to manipulate the stitches.

……………………………………………………………………………………

tubular 5tubular 6tubular 7

tubular cast on 9That’s really it, you are all set to start your knitting. If you are making a hat, you
can join in the round now. Work the last stitch of the row together with the first
stitch of the next row (= 1 stitch decreased) and now you have the right number
of stitches.