. . . cablino . . .

Next one is a hat with lots of cables: Cablino.

This one was lots of fun to sketch and watch those cables go smaller to shape the crown. It is often different from what you had in mind. But that makes it interesting.

cabline blocking carre

It looks like some kind of flower, doesn’t it ?

cabled hat mod

It is worked bottom up and seamlessly in the round.

cabled hat mod 2

There is only one size due to the complexity of the cable design. But it is easy to alter the stitch gauge and thus obtain other sizes. Notes about changing gauge and size are included.
The cables are charted and written.
It can be worked as a beanie or blocked to a beret.

one size see below for other sizes
to fit head circumference: 54 – 58 cm / 21¼ – 22¾ “
finished measurement at the brim (slightly stretched): 52 cm / 20½”
crown circumference (blocked on a plate): 78 cm / 30¾” (diameter 25 cm / 9¾”)
Blocking aggressively will get a larger diameter.
Without blocking it is a beanie.

cablino montage

Top left is the unblocked beanie, the two other photos are the hat blocked to a beret.

What you’ll need
worsted / 10 ply
or you can use a fingering / 4 ply weight doubled
Yardage for the hat
± 210 m / 230 yards
(if you use fingering held double, you should double the yardage)
4 mm (US 6) circular needle
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle
cable needle
tapestry needle

23.5 sts and 32 rows of repeats of rows 1 to 24 of the cable stitch pattern, with the larger needle and blocked = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4”)

a note on gauge and size
For a larger head circumference you will need a larger needle and aran weight at a gauge of 22 sts and 30 rows.
The finished measurement at the brim is 55 cm / 21½” and fits a head of 57 to 61 cm / 22½” to 24”

For a smaller head circumference you will need a smaller needle and DK weight at a gauge of 25.5 sts and 35 rows.
The finished measurement at the brim will be 48 cm / 19” and fits a head of 50 to 54 cm / 19½” to 21¼”

cabled hat 1

Check it out here


. . . et entretemps . . .

_DSC3902 wips carreA lot of swatches … small ones, large ones …

entretemps coll carre

Textures, colors, constructions …

An idea popped up …

What if ? … A well known knitting technique combined with some kind of texture … lightbulb moment …

This is not very common. I did a search on Ravelry and nothing much came up. Got something to play with …

2018-10-01-11203 detail-carre

A kind of waves, don’t you think ?

_DSC3724 carre

Or sailing boats ?

I like the neutral colors with these textures.


Entretemps is a collection of a hat, scarf and a large, reversible, L- or V-shaped shawl, worked in entrelac with textured squares.

The entretemps shawl or wrap is made out of squares that have the same easily memorized stitch pattern. The use of increases, decreases and the joins of the squares give the shawl a dynamic third dimension with playful, organic shapes and interesting textures.

_DSC3783 carre
The stitch pattern is charted and written.

_DSC3865 carre

at the given gauge, wing length (in the center of the wing from the center to the tip) = ± 105 cm / 41½”
width per wing: ± 45 cm / 17¾”


What you’ll need
worsted / 10 ply
Yardage will depend on size of the shawl.
As pictured:
± 1200 m / 1320 yards
5 mm (US 8) needles
two 5 mm (US 8) double pointed needles to work the final I-cord
tapestry needle
4 markers if you wish to place them between the squares (optional)

worsted / 10 ply
The gauge is not crucial but will affect the size of your shawl.
gauge of the sample (unblocked)
18 sts and 16 ridges (or 32 rows) in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

More info here


What is this ? A cauliflower, a seed pod, definitely something organic, a fungus ?

_DSC3919 fungus carre

Ooh, it’s just a hat …

2018-10-16-11290 carre

Entretemps hat is worked with the same squares as the shawl, only a bit smaller.

_DSC3873 detail

Just as the shawl, the use of increases, decreases and the joins of the squares give the hat that dynamic third dimension and swirly shape.

The stitch pattern is both charted and written.

What you’ll need
sport weight / 5 ply
± 230 to 300 m / 250 to 330 yards

3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle
crochet hook for the cast on
tapestry needle
1 distinctive marker to mark the end of rounds (BOR) and 7 markers to place between repeats if you wish to do so

_DSC3917 hat on tree carre

One size for other sizes see ‘a note on gauge and size’ below
to fit head circumference: 54 – 58 cm / 21¼ – 22¾ “
finished measurement at the brim (slightly stretched): 50 cm / 19½”

unblocked garter stitch
22.5 sts and 21 ridges (or 42 rows)
= 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

A note on gauge and size
For a larger head circumference you will need a larger needle and DK weight at a gauge of 21 sts and 19 ridges (38 rows).
The finished measurement at the brim is 54 cm / 21¼” and fits a head of 57 to 63 cm / 22½” to 24¾”

For a smaller head circumference you will need a smaller needle and fingering weight at a gauge of 24 sts and 22 ridges (44 rows).
The finished measurement at the brim will be 47 cm / 18½” and fits a head of 50 to 54 cm / 19½” to 21¼”

More info here


What if ? … Always the most interesting question, don’t you think ? ^^

_DSC4175 ok.jpg

The same construction but different elements …

scarf detail grimbergen 5carrescarf fotoshoot grimbergen-

Entretemps scarf is made out of squares with a seed stitch motif on a purled background. The design looks very intricate, but it is easy peasy.

scarf detail grimbergen 2
The stitch pattern is charted and written.

scarf detail verso carre

_DSC4174 ok

at the given gauge, width: ± 29 cm / 11½”
length of the sample: ± 240 cm / 94½”
Can easily be altered by working more or less repeats.

_DSC4123 ok

What you’ll need
DK / 8 ply
Yardage will depend on length of the shawl
As pictured:
± 850 m / 930 yards
4.5 mm (US 7) needles
two 4.5 mm (US 7) double pointed needles to work the final I-cord
tapestry needle
4 markers if you wish to place them between the squares (optional)

is not crucial but will affect the size of your shawl
gauge of the sample (unblocked)
20 sts and 30 rows in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

More info here


All three patterns are tech edited bue Sue-Cat

and they are bundled in one pdf: entretemps


And what if (bis) ?

The stitch pattern from the scarf with the hat pattern ?

_DSC4305 ok



I sure have got something to play with now …

_DSC3703 carre

To be continued …

. . . from braided leaves (bis) . . .

Ahah, and there is a matching hat: braided leaves hat.

_DSC4006hat carre

It features the same stranded colorwork with delicate outlined leaves, perfect to work up some little rests.

braided hat WIP
Worked bottom up, it starts with Jenny’s magic cast on as a provisional cast on. A doubled brim with – at the bottom – a small chart of ‘tilted’ lines refers to the pullovers ‘twisted / tilted details’.



It comes in three sizes: kids, medium and large. Instructions for a beanie or a more slouchy hat are included.
The samples are medium size: slouchy fit and beanie.

slouchy fit


The colorwork is charted only.

Tips on colorwork and fair isle to successfully knit the leaves are included.

Find out more here.

_DSC4026hat on dead tree

Get both patterns: braided leaves and braided leaves hat together.

braided leaves flat

. . . from braided leaves . . .

I am a bit (a lot) behind presenting my latest patterns. This post will cover the patterns from the last months of 2018.

Let’s start with ‘braided leaves’. I adored knitting and designing this pattern.

leaf mosaic WIP3

Looking at all the photos I took to illustrate this design, I think it’s better to make one blog post per pattern after all.

leafmosaic mod 2-

leafmosaic mod 6+-

Braided leaves is a pullover with stranded colorwork and eyelets at the yoke. Some nice, colored or ‘twisted’ details make this a uniquely designed pullover.

leafmosaic mod top

tilting eyelets at the yoke

It is worked top down and seamlessly in the round. It starts with a twisted neck band followed by a few short rows to shape the back neck. The circular yoke is build up using eyelets on top of each other giving the yoke a dynamic twist.

detail neck with leaves

A few more increases are added while knitting the colorwork of the braided leaves. The same idea of twist is used for the pocket bands, the cuffs and ribbing at the bottom.

pocket detail with leaf

twisted pocket band

A simpler version of the leaves is added to the sleeve cuffs and the inside of the small pockets is worked in stranded knitting.

leafmosaic mod pocket

stranded pockets and ’tilting’ hem

The colorwork is charted only, (no written instructions).
Tips on how to successfully knit stranded colorwork are included.

This pattern has been tech edited by Sue-Cat and test knit.

XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements (chest): 31½, 35½, 39½, 43½, 47½, 51” (80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 130 cm)
Intended to be worn with some positive ease.

What you’ll need
fingering weight / 4 ply
MC: ± 1000/1100/1200/1350/1450/1600 m (1100/1200/1310/14750/1600/1750 yards)
CC: ± 140/155/170/190/210/230 m (155/170/185/210/230/255 yards)

two 3 mm (US 2½) circular needles
3 mm (US 2½) double pointed needle
3 mm (US 2½) straight needles for the pocket bands
3.25 mm (US 3) circular needle for the stranded colorwork, if necessary
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle for the ribbing

4 markers
or 10/11/12/12/13/13 markers if you wish to place markers between repeats

27 sts and 38 rows stockinette stitch with the 3 mm (US 2½) needle = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

Check it out here.

. . . fruit socks . . .

Harvest time …

fruit salad

What is your favorite flavor?


fruit socks

Bananas ?

Blueberries ?

Carrots ? not really a fruit, but sweet anyway

Cherries, maybe ?

with a slice of lemon ?

raspeberries or strawberries

Pick out your favorite fruit and yarn and knit a pair of socks.

If you really can’t make up your mind, why not wear a strawberry sock with a banana sock, or a raspberry sock with a cherry sock?

rasp + straw berries-

lemon + bananas
If you have an excellent cook or a foodie in your family or friends, it might just be the perfect gift…

The socks are worked toe up with a heel flap and a short row heel.

detail 2+ text fruity socks

This pattern is only available in the e-book ‘fruit socks’. It contains a basic sock pattern and 7 fruity charts in 3 sizes (very possible that there will be other fruits added)
The fruits are charted only.

A photo tutorial is also included showing the special increases and decreases that are used to shape the fruits.

S/M/L to fit foot circumference: 19.5 / 22 / 25 cm
7½ / 8¾ / 10 “
Finished height = ± 16 to 22 cm / 6 to 8½” as desired

What you’ll need
fingering / 4 ply
± 280 to 320 m / 300 to 350 yards

2.25 mm (US 1) circular needle or 5 double pointed needles or size to obtain gauge
cable needle
tapestry needle

32 sts and 45 rows in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm (4”x 4”)


Find out more here.

summer – part two

It has been – and it still is – way to hot to knit… over 30° C, phhew.

I really should be knitting winter stuff in heavy yarn weights now: aran, worsted or DK to prepare for new patterns. I started a warm pullover and a cozy winter cardigan before the heatwave. But right now, I can’t stand having a large, heavy pullover on my lap. The thought of knitting a smaller thing like a hat or a pair mittens makes me sweat already…

Then I saw this wonderful, amazing, colorful ‘tableau’: knitted faces in all colors with all kinds of expressions. Fantastic. DNA (look here) from ‘ableramm’ on Ravelry. She did a wonderful job. It is based on a pattern from Katarina Brieditis. It is a free pattern and can be found here. I love what she is doing, a new discovery.

I had to try it too. It looks so much fun. And a perfect small thing to knit in these temperatures.

face1This is the first one: knit as per the pattern, only I did slip the first stitches purlwise instead of knitwise – I didn’t read carefully, must be the heat –  and I did p2tog at the left eye ^^

Then I started to change a few things: the second one has unintentionally large lips because the yarn I used for the lips is a heavier weight. I also added more short rows under and above the eyes.


With the third and fourth I started changing the slipped stitches in the short rows to DS (double stitches as in German short rows). The knitting looks much cleaner, no long, sloppy stitches at the turns.

A longer nose, eyes closer together, larger mouth, more short rows around the eyes. One can go on for ever 🙂 More info on the changes I made on my project page here.

With every change comes another face, another expression. Finally when the eyes are added, they really are coming to life and interact with each other – or not.

4 faces

Don’t know yet what I will do with them, but it is great fun and I learned a lot.
‘I saw four faces, one mad …’ 10CC

I also made a few other little things that are very handy. On the intro page of Ravelry there were these cute little knitted produce bags. I have been thinking to make some kind of reusable and washable bags to go to the market and replace the paper and plastic bags. We already reuse the paper bags and avoid plastic bags, but this is so much better: weightless produce bag by Julie Tarsha. They are really lightweight. I managed to make three of them out of 1 ball of cotton (50 grs, 170 m).


Tomatoes, red oignons, nectarines and oranges. They are just perfect: not too large and not too small. Although they look very small, the are very extensible: the larger one can hold 2 kgs of tomatoes. I think I will make some more and maybe a few smaller ones too.

groententasjes 2

This is another very quick project and very small too: reusable crocheted cotton pads. There are two free patterns for these. Both are quite the same: here and here. I used the first one, but in the first round I made the puff stitches with only 3 repeats. It got too difficult to get the 8 puffs in the first round.


watjes 2

In the meantime all the warm stuff is waiting for cooler weather…

Have a nice summer ✺



. . . summer . . .

Linen is the perfect yarn for summer clothes. It is a bit hard to the hands to knit it up, but it gets softer with every soak. And it has a lovely shine and drape – although drape is not really necessary in the second project, on the contrary …

  1. Linne #2 See the blog post here and the pattern here
    I bought some lovely linen in 2 nice colors: aqua blue-green and a very, very dark  blue, nearly black.
    I will try to make a gradient of these 2 colors. And I will use ‘helix knitting’ to make it. If I can find out how…

    And I did 🙂 It is not difficult at all. It is surprisingly easy, just knitting in the round and picking up the other color at the start of each round, no twisting of yarns, no pulling on the yarn ! That is very important …
    I pulled a little too hard, even though I didn’t get the feeling I pulled at all. So it is really important to work very loosely when switching yarns.

    I started the ‘helix’ like this: slip half of the just worked stitches back to the left needle and knit them again with the 2nd color. When you come to the other color, just pick up that color (don’t twist both yarns) and knit a round. And so on, and so on … Super easy peasy. When my first color was nearly finished I ended in the same way. I knit half of the stitches with color 1, slipped them back to the left needle and knit them again with color 2. The bottom is worked in color 2 only.

    linne stvictor 7
    linne stvictor 5
    liinne stvictor 2


  2. And then there is #2: a linen hat
    It is inspired by a free pattern available  on Ravelry: windansea
    But I made it top down and I also wanted another shape.
    Starting with a cast on in the round of 8 sts: just turn the yarn twice around a finger and k1, p1 four times in the circle. After having knit the 8 sts in the first round, you can pull on the tail and close the round …
    hat WIP-
    I also wanted another shape like the one I was wearing with my second linne tee (see above). I love that shape, but it was not mine. Had to return it. :/
    I added short rows to shape the brim so that it is larger at the front.When it was finished I crocheted a wire at the edge and sewed a large elastic at the bottom of the crown to shape the hat.
    I found the perfect moulding form (an old basket)…
    and applied fabric stiffener and left it to dry …hat blocked 2-

    A ribbon and tada 🙂

    Happy summer