. . . three easy pieces, #2 . . .

Actually #2 came first…

I had this (very old) pullover that is one of my favorite mid-season wears. ‘Old’ because I knit this back in 2005!! and I still wear it.

Don’t remember which yarn I used for it. It is probably a mix of wool and acrylic ??? I knitted it in plain stockinette stitch and top down to use every meter of it.
I thought it looked a bit dull and too grey, although it is a beautiful grey with some blue in it…

So I ‘STEEKED’ and sewed separately knitted petals in the fents. In 2005 I didn’t know the word ‘steek’, didn’t even know it was a known technique… I just cut the fents in my pullover and with my sewing machine added a zigzag along the edges…

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I wrote a pattern for it only just now. With ‘steeks’ (cutting) or without… Instructions are included to knit the fents without the cutting… because that might look scary…

This is my new version holding two yarns together: BC Garn semilla, sport weight in a lovely ‘vieux rose’ and Mirasol Yarn Sulka Legato, colorway pearl, a light fingering weight.

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#2 of Three easy pieces is a simple pullover with a raglan sleeve inset knit at a loose gauge as the two others. Top down, seamlessly in the round and featuring eye catching ‘petals’.
The two methods are included:

• if you are adventurous and like to change the position of the petals, they can be made by steeks and cutting
• or you can knit the fents without having to cut the fabric.

The ‘petals’ are knit separately in the round and sewn in place giving the effect that they are behind the fents.

If you use the steek method, you should use a sticky woolen yarn, don’t use superwash wool or cotton yarns. Instead of using worsted weight yarn you can use a sport weight or light DK weight yarn paired with mohair.

The hem and cuffs are finished with a welted bind off giving it a minimal finished look that prevents stockinette stitch from rolling.

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There are two other versions of this pattern, but they look completely different. I wrote them up in two more patterns. They are bundled in one e-book called: three easy pieces, three patterns to mix and match. More about #1 here and #3 in next post.
At any time you can switch between the three patterns. They all start in the same way and have the same stitch counts. Check #1 for a short sleeved or 3/4 tapered sleeved version in gradients or with some colorwork and A-line body. Go to #3, if you want to add a turtle neck and balloon sleeves.

Sizes:
XS / S / M / L / XL / XXL / XXXL
finished measurements chest: 32 / 35 / 39 / 43 / 47 / 50 / 54 “ (81 / 88 / 99 / 109 / 119 / 128 / 137 cm)

What you’ll need
worsted weight, two fingering weights held together or a sport weight paired with a lace weight or mohair
If you use the steek method, you should use a sticky woolen yarn, don’t use superwash or cotton yarns

main color: ± 750/820/900/1000/1100/1200/1300 m (820/900/1000/1100/1200/1320/1420 yards)
if you use yarn held double, you need to double the amount

small rest of worsted or DK weight in different colors for the ‘petals’

5 mm (US 8) circular needle or size to obtain gauge
6 markers
tapestry needle
sewing machine (for the steek method)

Gauge
stockinette stitch blocked: 16.5 sts and 25 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

Find out more about it here

. . . reversibles #1 and #2 . . .

I like to combine different techniques, try out new things, experiment…

Can you see what is special about those cables ?

It is a mix of reversible stitches like garter stitch and ribbing, of cable knitting and a few aspects from double knitting.

There is no wrong side or no right side. Both sides are showing the cables, but they are mirrored which makes them completely reversible.

There are two patterns: Reversible cabled scarf #1 is based on the same cable as the one used in ‘Evidemment‘. But I reworked it to be used as a reversible cable. It became long scarf with cabling on a garter stitch background on both sides !!

#1 is more difficult to execute than #2: it has right leaning and left leaning cables and they are both worked on right side rows only. What is the right side or the wrong side anyway 😉 – BTW it is good idea to add a removible stitch marker on the right side!!!

Cables to the left are trickier to work because you will need two cable needles.

A few more photos of #1

What you’ll need

Reversible scarf #1
Yardage will depend on length of the scarf
As pictured: ± 700 m / 770 yards of worsted weight yarn
4.5 mm (US 7) straight needles
two cable needles
tapestry needle
2 markers if you wish to place them between charts (optional)

Gauge
worsted weight or heavy DK weight
The gauge is not crucial but will affect the size of your scarf
gauge of the sample (unblocked): 26 sts and 28.5 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

gauge of the sample (blocked and lengthwise stretched)
30 sts and 22 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

Size of the sample
at the given gauge (unblocked), width: ± 29 cm / 11½”, length: ± 150 cm / 59”
(blocked and lengthwise stretched), width: ± 25 cm / 9¾”, length: ± 188 cm / 74”

………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

This is Reversible cabled scarf #2 , a very long scarf with cables on a garter stitch background on both sides !!!

This one is easier than scarf #1 because it only uses cabling to the right… BUT the cabling occurs on Wrong sides too.

The pattern follows the charts as worked up in the sample. But you can switch between charts to make a shorter or longer scarf.
You could knit an easy scarf using only chart A throughout. Or you can start with chart A, work chart C and end with chart E skipping charts B and D.

What you’ll need
Reversible scarf #2
Yardage will depend on length of the scarf
As pictured: ± 800 m / 880 yards of DK weight yarn
4 mm (US 6) straight needles
cable needle
tapestry needle
6 markers if you wish to place them between cables (optional)

Gauge
DK weight
The gauge is not crucial but will affect the size of your scarf
gauge of the sample (unblocked): 27 sts and 30 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

Size
at the given gauge, width: ± 23.5 cm / 9¼”
length of the sample: ± 244 cm / 96”

The stitch patterns of both patterns are charted and fully written.

Tech edited by Sue-Cat

No more worries how to wear your cabled scarf, if the good side is up or not.

😀 😀 😀

Check out here and here

. . . traces . . .

Traces is kind of a pullover …
or a poncho with sleeves …

It started as an experiment in the center with a circular cast on like this:

4.5 mm / US 7 needle and Aran weight and steadily growing.

First it is worked in the round with large celtic cables. When a sufficient length is reached, the panels are worked back and forth to shape the neckline.

I had to perform some major surgery. The first panel I knit was too loose at the center creating some kind of bump in the middle. So, I snipped a stitch and undid one round.

I ripped back the center and reknit it changing the charts a little and using a smaller needle size. Then I joined the two pieces using kitchener stitch.

Front and back are joined at the shoulders knitting stitches together, but leaving the cables unjoined.

They are grafted later, giving the effect of the cables laying on top of the join.

A few short rows are added at the beginning of the sleeves for a better fit. They are worked top down in the round.

Choice between two neck finishes: a small rolled neckband or a large turtle neck.

A few more photos of the FO…

What you’ll need
Aran weight
± 1100, 1200, 1350 m
(1200, 1320, 1480 yards)
If you make it with a turtle neck, you will need an additional 120 to 150 m / 130 to 160 yards.
one long 4.5 mm (US 7) circular needle (minimum length 100 cm / 40”)
or three 4.5 mm (US 7) circular needles
two 4 mm (US 6) circular needles
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
cable needle
8 markers
crochet hook
scrap yarn

Gauge
stockinette stitch: 18 sts x 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”) with the larger needle

At this moment (february 26) the pattern contains only size M/L. S-petite and XL-tall are being testknit right now and will be added later (end of March 2020).

Check it out here to see more versions from the testknitters.

. . . pythagoras’ tee . . .

Do you remember these ?

Pythagoras’ mitts, beret, hats and pullover. I can’t stop playing with these triangular shapes… They have something fascinating.

So now there is a new item in the collection: Pythagoras’ tee with triangles in stranded colorwork. I had this in my mind since I made the berets and the hats…

It is so fun and interesting to try out different increases to make them as unnoticeable as possible…

I am quite enjoying stranded colorwork now, since I learned to knit with one color in each hand – and I am getting better and better in it. 😀

Gosh, I see a mistake in the photo above that I never noticed before 😉

Pythagoras’ tee is a cute, slightly oversized tee or pullover with a nearly invisible sleeve inset.
It is worked top down and seamlessly in one piece. The colorwork pattern is easy, it consists of light and dark stitches that form a mix of triangles (pythagoras !). Tips on colorwork and stranded knitting are included.

Special, cleverly placed increases are worked following the colorwork pattern and that makes them nearly invisible.

Little striped pockets, a large hem with a checked pattern and a striped, turned hem finish the body.

The checked pattern gives the body a natural flare and a gentle A-line (no extra increases are worked).

A photo of the WIP (work in progress). It looks cute with short sleeves, doesn’t it ?

Not sure what I will do wih the sleeves. Short is cute, but I think I will get more wear of it has longer sleeves…

Short ?

Long ?

Both options are included: short sleeves or 3/4 sleeves at the same length as the body.

In the meantime, I am getting quite used to the different sleeves, haha.

Sizes
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements chest: 34½, 37, 41, 45, 50, 54 “ (88, 94, 105, 114, 127, 138 cm)

Intended to be worn with some positive ease (6 to 15 cm / 2½ to 6 “) at the high bust (under the armpits).
The sample is size M worn with 16 cm / 6¼” of positive ease at the high bust.

What you’ll need
fingering weight
Total yardage for the short sleeved tee: ± 1250, 1380, 1500, 1600, 1800, 1950 m (1370, 1500, 1650, 1750, 2000, 2150 yards)
Half of each color (D and L)
If you add 3/4 sleeves, you will need about 200 m / 220 yards more per color.

3 mm (US 2½) circular needle or size to obtain gauge
two 3 mm (US 2½) double pointed needles or straight needles
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle
crochet hook
6 markers
tapestry needle

Gauge
29 sts and 34.5 rows in stranded stitch pattern = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

The pattern has been tech edited by Sue-Cat on Ravelry.

Check it out here

All pythagoras’ patterns are bundeled in one e-book: Pythagoras

I think Pythagoras needs a pair of new socks too…

 

. . . mosaiX scarf . . .

Published today: mosaiX scarf – or wrap, because it is quite large – that goes with the mosaiX hats from a previous post.

It combines two well known knitting techniques: mosaic knitting and entrelac knitting which makes it quite unique. (Well, that is what I like: combining, experimenting and see if and how it works 😉

Here is a detail of the texture it makes mixing both techniques.

The **mosaiX scarf** is worked in entrelac with squares in a mosaic stitch pattern. It is the same mosaic square throughout but there are some variations that can be used, if you should get bored.

It looks more difficult than it is. Only one color is worked per row, the advantage of ‘mosaic knitting’: only the stitches in the working color are knit, the others are just slipped.

The scarf is finished with an I-cord all around and two large pompoms, one on each side.

I made two large pompoms, the diameter is about 13 cm

Here are some ideas how to make pompoms, or tassels

The basic mosaic stitch pattern is charted and fully written out. The variations of the basic chart are charted only.

one size but easily adjustable in length
at the given gauge, width: ± 40 cm / 16”
length: ± 186 cm / 73½” from point to point

What you’ll need
DK weight: yardage will depend on length of the scarf
As pictured (without the pompoms):
D: (dark color) ± 570 m / 625 yards
L: (light color) ± 500 m / 550 yards
4 mm (US 6) straight needles
two 4 mm (US 6) double pointed needles to work the final I-cord
tapestry needle
4 markers if you wish to place them between the squares (optional)

Gauge
The gauge is not crucial but will affect the size of your scarf / wrap.
garter stitch (unblocked): 20 sts and 10 ridges (= 20 rows) = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

 

MosaiX scarf is available as a stand alone pattern or in an e-book together with the mosaiX hats from a previous post: mosaiX.

. . . kazual . . .

I am still playing with my new bind off method … Trying out a few new things …

And this is the result: Kazual, a ‘casual’ pullover worked top down and seamlessly in the round.

It starts at the top with a welted cast on. It features striped welts on the shoulders …

and elbows …

and it has two small pockets.

The welts are very easy to make: no difficult intarsia. Only one color is worked per row. You never need to join to the main color in the same row.
There are a few ends to weave in, but that shouldn’t scare you off: they are very easily hidden in the welts.

The body has a slight A-line adding up to the relaxed, ‘casual’ feel and the cuffs and hems have a ‘minimal finished look’ using the special bind off method.

Everything you need to successfully finish your Kazual is included, no need to search on the web:

• photo tutorials to work the striped welts and the special cast on technique
• tutorials for short rows and jogless stripes.

Tech edited by Sue-Cat

Sizes
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements chest: 33 / 37 / 41 / 44½ / 48 / 52 “ (83 / 98 / 104 / 113 / 122 / 132 cm)
Intended to be worn with positive ease (10 to 25 cm / 4 to 10”). Model is wearing M with 15 cm / 6” of positive ease at the high bust (under the armpits).

What you’ll need
worsted weight or heavy DK
MC (main color) ± 650/750/800/880/950/1050 m (710/820/880/960/1050/1150 yards)
Instead of a worsted weight you can also pair a sportweight with a lace weight (mohair)
CC (contrasting color) between 80 and 100 m / between 88 and 110 yards
5 mm (US 8) circular needles and straight needles (optional)
4 markers

Gauge
stockinette stitch blocked: 17 sts and 25 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

More info here

. . . et entretemps . . .

A lot of swatches … small ones, large ones …

Textures, colors, constructions …

An idea popped up …

What if ? … A well known knitting technique combined with some kind of texture … lightbulb moment …

This is not very common. I did a search on Ravelry and nothing much came up. Got something to play with …

A kind of waves, don’t you think ?

Or sailing boats ?

I like the neutral colors with these textures.

Entretemps is a collection of a hat, scarf and a large, reversible, L- or V-shaped shawl, worked in entrelac with textured squares.

The entretemps shawl or wrap is made out of squares that have the same easily memorized stitch pattern. The use of increases, decreases and the joins of the squares give the shawl a dynamic third dimension with playful, organic shapes and interesting textures.

The stitch pattern is charted and written.

Size
at the given gauge, wing length (in the center of the wing from the center to the tip) = ± 105 cm / 41½”
width per wing: ± 45 cm / 17¾”

What you’ll need
worsted / 10 ply
Yardage will depend on size of the shawl.
As pictured:
± 1200 m / 1320 yards
5 mm (US 8) needles
two 5 mm (US 8) double pointed needles to work the final I-cord
tapestry needle
4 markers if you wish to place them between the squares (optional)

Gauge
worsted / 10 ply
The gauge is not crucial but will affect the size of your shawl.
gauge of the sample (unblocked)
18 sts and 16 ridges (or 32 rows) in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

More info here

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What is this ? A cauliflower, a seed pod, definitely something organic, a fungus ?

Ooh, it’s just a hat …

Entretemps hat is worked with the same squares as the shawl, only a bit smaller.

Just as the shawl, the use of increases, decreases and the joins of the squares give the hat that dynamic third dimension and swirly shape.

The stitch pattern is both charted and written.

What you’ll need
sport weight / 5 ply
± 230 to 300 m / 250 to 330 yards

3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle
crochet hook for the cast on
tapestry needle
1 distinctive marker to mark the end of rounds (BOR) and 7 markers to place between repeats if you wish to do so

One size for other sizes see ‘a note on gauge and size’ below
to fit head circumference: 54 – 58 cm / 21¼ – 22¾ “
finished measurement at the brim (slightly stretched): 50 cm / 19½”

Gauge
unblocked garter stitch
22.5 sts and 21 ridges (or 42 rows)
= 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

A note on gauge and size
For a larger head circumference you will need a larger needle and DK weight at a gauge of 21 sts and 19 ridges (38 rows).
The finished measurement at the brim is 54 cm / 21¼” and fits a head of 57 to 63 cm / 22½” to 24¾”

For a smaller head circumference you will need a smaller needle and fingering weight at a gauge of 24 sts and 22 ridges (44 rows).
The finished measurement at the brim will be 47 cm / 18½” and fits a head of 50 to 54 cm / 19½” to 21¼”

More info here

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What if ? … Always the most interesting question, don’t you think ? ^^

The same construction but different elements …

Entretemps scarf is made out of squares with a seed stitch motif on a purled background. The design looks very intricate, but it is easy peasy.

The stitch pattern is charted and written.

Size
at the given gauge, width: ± 29 cm / 11½”
length of the sample: ± 240 cm / 94½”
Can easily be altered by working more or less repeats.

What you’ll need
DK / 8 ply
Yardage will depend on length of the shawl
As pictured:
± 850 m / 930 yards
4.5 mm (US 7) needles
two 4.5 mm (US 7) double pointed needles to work the final I-cord
tapestry needle
4 markers if you wish to place them between the squares (optional)

Gauge
is not crucial but will affect the size of your shawl
gauge of the sample (unblocked)
20 sts and 30 rows in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

More info here

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All three patterns are tech edited bue Sue-Cat

and they are bundled in one pdf: entretemps

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And what if (bis) ?

The stitch pattern from the scarf with the hat pattern ?

I sure have got something to play with now …

To be continued …

. . . summer . . .

Linen is the perfect yarn for summer clothes. It is a bit hard to the hands to knit it up, but it gets softer with every soak. And it has a lovely shine and drape – although drape is not really necessary in the second project, on the contrary …

1. Linne #2 See the blog post here and the pattern here
   I bought some lovely linen in 2 nice colors: aqua blue-green and a very, very dark  blue, nearly black.
   I will try to make a gradient of these 2 colors. And I will use ‘helix knitting’ to make it. If I can find out how…
   

   

   

   

   

   And I did 🙂 It is not difficult at all. It is surprisingly easy, just knitting in the round and picking up the other color at the start of each round, no twisting of yarns, no pulling on the yarn ! That is very important …
   
   I pulled a little too hard, even though I didn’t get the feeling I pulled at all. So it is really important to work very loosely when switching yarns.

   I started the ‘helix’ like this: slip half of the just worked stitches back to the left needle and knit them again with the 2nd color. When you come to the other color, just pick up that color (don’t twist both yarns) and knit a round. And so on, and so on … Super easy peasy. When my first color was nearly finished I ended in the same way. I knit half of the stitches with color 1, slipped them back to the left needle and knit them again with color 2. The bottom is worked in color 2 only.

   

   

   

   

   

   
   
   

   

   

    

2. And then there is #2: a linen hat
   It is inspired by a free pattern available  on Ravelry: windansea
   But I made it top down and I also wanted another shape.
   Starting with a cast on in the round of 8 sts: just turn the yarn twice around a finger and k1, p1 four times in the circle. After having knit the 8 sts in the first round, you can pull on the tail and close the round …
   
   I also wanted another shape like the one I was wearing with my second linne tee (see above). I love that shape, but it was not mine. Had to return it.
   I added short rows to shape the brim so that it is larger at the front.When it was finished I crocheted a wire at the edge and sewed a large elastic at the bottom of the crown to shape the hat.
   I found the perfect moulding form (an old basket)…
   
   and applied fabric stiffener and left it to dry …

   A ribbon and tada 🙂

   

   

   

   

   Happy summer

. . . squared . . .

Oups, I am a bit behind … 2 patterns have been published last month …

Let me present the one I am very proud of: Squared, a casual, oversized pullover with a sporty look and an innovative construction.
There is no sewing, seaming or intarsia involved. It is based on the same principle as . . . wild rose: the cardigan . . . and . . . Greenhouse knits #6 . . . but it is quite different.

First, the sleeves are worked bottom up (perfect as a giant swatch). Stitches are picked up as you go and put on hold to shape the steps of the ‘squared’ raglan sleeve inset. Then back and front are worked top down with an easy stitch pattern that continues the same idea of the stair shape and forms a waffle* structure.

 

A stair shaped hem finishes the body.

Finally a small rolled neck band is added in a contrasting color.

The pattern has been tech edited by @sue-cat111 on Instagram, Sue-Cat on Ravelry.

Sizes
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements chest: 38½, 42½, 46½, 50, 54, 58 “(98, 108, 118, 124, 138, 148 cm)
Intended to be worn with positive ease (20 to 40 cm / 8 to 16” ). Model is wearing size M with ± 25 cm / 10 “ of positive ease.

What you’ll need
DK weight
MC1 (body)
± 700/780/850/930/1020/1100 m (770/850/930/1020/1120/1200 yards)
MC2 (sleeves)
± 380/400/440/480/520/560 m (420/440/480/530/570/620 yards)
CC: 45 to 90 m ( 50 to 100 yards)
two 4 mm (US 6) circular needles
and straight needles (optional)
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle or double pointed needles
6 markers

Gauge stockinette with larger needle size and blocked: 21 sts and 32 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here

. . . spirale . . .

This was great fun to design …

Spirale is a hat worked back and forth at a very tight gauge. It starts at the top with only four stitches gradually getting wider and forming a strip.

The strip is spiraling down joining as you go with a special technique. It can be worn as is – a long hat – or the brim can be folded back and the top spirals pushed down.

It is a a very fun and addictive project.

I made four of them and some of the testers made several too. It has been known that finished hats often disappear…

Sizes
S, M and L: head circumference: 52-56 / 55-59 / 58-63 cm (20½-22” / 21½-23¼” / 23-25”)
finished measurements (brim): 50.5 / 52.5 / 55 cm (19¾” / 20½” / 22”)

What you’ll need
The heavier the yarn weight, the better it keeps its shape.
minimum aran weight / 10 ply (200 m / 220 yards per 100 gr)
to bulky weight (120 m / 130 yards per 100 gr)
± 165 to 230 m / 180 to 250 yards
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle (60 or 80 cm / 24 to 31½ “)
4 removable markers
tapestry needle
Don’t try to make this hat in a DK-weight yarn, unless you pair it with a fingering weight held together – sport or DK weight held double should also work. It really should be a very dense and stiff fabric to keep its shape.

Gauge
23 sts and 22 ridges (= 44 rows) in garter stitch, unblocked
= 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here