. . . summer . . .

Linen is the perfect yarn for summer clothes. It is a bit hard to the hands to knit it up, but it gets softer with every soak. And it has a lovely shine and drape – although drape is not really necessary in the second project, on the contrary …

  1. Linne #2 See the blog post here and the pattern here
    I bought some lovely linen in 2 nice colors: aqua blue-green and a very, very dark  blue, nearly black.
    I will try to make a gradient of these 2 colors. And I will use ‘helix knitting’ to make it. If I can find out how…

    And I did 🙂 It is not difficult at all. It is surprisingly easy, just knitting in the round and picking up the other color at the start of each round, no twisting of yarns, no pulling on the yarn ! That is very important …
    helix
    I pulled a little too hard, even though I didn’t get the feeling I pulled at all. So it is really important to work very loosely when switching yarns.

    I started the ‘helix’ like this: slip half of the just worked stitches back to the left needle and knit them again with the 2nd color. When you come to the other color, just pick up that color (don’t twist both yarns) and knit a round. And so on, and so on … Super easy peasy. When my first color was nearly finished I ended in the same way. I knit half of the stitches with color 1, slipped them back to the left needle and knit them again with color 2. The bottom is worked in color 2 only.

    linne stvictor 7
    linne stvictor 5
    liinne stvictor 2

     

  2. And then there is #2: a linen hat
    It is inspired by a free pattern available  on Ravelry: windansea
    But I made it top down and I also wanted another shape.
    Starting with a cast on in the round of 8 sts: just turn the yarn twice around a finger and k1, p1 four times in the circle. After having knit the 8 sts in the first round, you can pull on the tail and close the round …
    hat WIP-
    I also wanted another shape like the one I was wearing with my second linne tee (see above). I love that shape, but it was not mine. Had to return it. :/
    I added short rows to shape the brim so that it is larger at the front.When it was finished I crocheted a wire at the edge and sewed a large elastic at the bottom of the crown to shape the hat.
    I found the perfect moulding form (an old basket)…
    hat-
    and applied fabric stiffener and left it to dry …hat blocked 2-

    A ribbon and tada 🙂

    Happy summer

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. . . squared . . .

Oups, I am a bit behind … 2 patterns have been published last month …

Let me present the one I am very proud of: Squared, a casual, oversized pullover with a sporty look and an innovative construction.squared montage dichter
There is no sewing, seaming or intarsia involved. It is based on the same principle as . . . wild rose: the cardigan . . . and . . . Greenhouse knits #6 . . . but it is quite different.

squared mod4

First, the sleeves are worked bottom up (perfect as a giant swatch). Stitches are picked up as you go and put on hold to shape the steps of the ‘squared’ raglan sleeve inset. Then back and front are worked top down with an easy stitch pattern that continues the same idea of the stair shape and forms a waffle* structure.

 

A stair shaped hem finishes the body.

waffle detail

Finally a small rolled neck band is added in a contrasting color.

The pattern has been tech edited by @sue-cat111 on Instagram, Sue-Cat on Ravelry.

squared details montage

Sizes
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements chest: 38½, 42½, 46½, 50, 54, 58 “(98, 108, 118, 124, 138, 148 cm)
Intended to be worn with positive ease (20 to 40 cm / 8 to 16” ). Model is wearing size M with ± 25 cm / 10 “ of positive ease.

What you’ll need
DK weight
MC1 (body)
± 700/780/850/930/1020/1100 m (770/850/930/1020/1120/1200 yards)
MC2 (sleeves)
± 380/400/440/480/520/560 m (420/440/480/530/570/620 yards)
CC: 45 to 90 m ( 50 to 100 yards)
two 4 mm (US 6) circular needles
and straight needles (optional)
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle or double pointed needles
6 markers

Gauge stockinette with larger needle size and blocked: 21 sts and 32 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here

. . . spirale . . .

This was great fun to design …

blue

Spirale is a hat worked back and forth at a very tight gauge. It starts at the top with only four stitches gradually getting wider and forming a strip.

spirale 5 ridges straight + wedge

The strip is spiraling down joining as you go with a special technique. It can be worn as is – a long hat – or the brim can be folded back and the top spirals pushed down.

grey inside

It is a a very fun and addictive project.

spirale 4 mod 8+

I made four of them and some of the testers made several too. It has been known that finished hats often disappear…

tomorrow

Sizes
S, M and L: head circumference: 52-56 / 55-59 / 58-63 cm (20½-22” / 21½-23¼” / 23-25”)
finished measurements (brim): 50.5 / 52.5 / 55 cm (19¾” / 20½” / 22”)

mecha spirale montage

What you’ll need
The heavier the yarn weight, the better it keeps its shape.
minimum aran weight / 10 ply (200 m / 220 yards per 100 gr)
to bulky weight (120 m / 130 yards per 100 gr)
± 165 to 230 m / 180 to 250 yards
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle (60 or 80 cm / 24 to 31½ “)
4 removable markers
tapestry needle
Don’t try to make this hat in a DK-weight yarn, unless you pair it with a fingering weight held together – sport or DK weight held double should also work. It really should be a very dense and stiff fabric to keep its shape.

Gauge
23 sts and 22 ridges (= 44 rows) in garter stitch, unblocked
= 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here

. . . zebraaaa . . .

Published a while ago: Zebra tee …

swirl tee +

IT is a striped (!) – I do love stripes – pullover worked top down and seamlessly in the round. It starts in quite a special way by working the neckline at the back and front at the same time.

Doesn’t it looks like Zebra ?

Stitches are picked up to start the sleevecap. Sleeves, back and front are worked using a variation of the contiguous sleeve inset developed by Susie Myers.
After separating body and sleeves, the body is worked top down with extra ‘wedges’ at the sides. The sleeves are also worked top down and in the round.

swirl tee 5 +

Sizes
XXS/XS, S, M, M2, L, XL
finished measurements (chest): 27.5 / 31 / 34.5 / 38 / 41 / 45 ” (70 / 78 / 88 / 96 / 104 / 114 cm)
Intended to be worn with some negative ease or no ease. Choose the size closest to your high bust measurement (under the armpits)

What you’ll need
total yardage: ± 950, 1050, 1150, 1260, 1360, 1500m (1050, 1150, 1260, 1380, 1500, 1650 yards) of fingering weight / 4 ply
• the black / off white sample: 3/5 of MC (black) and 2/5 CC (off white)
• grey-brown-blue sample: uses 50% of MC and 50% of CC

3,5 mm (US 4) circular needle or size to obtain gauge
3 mm (US 2 1/2) circular needle
crochet hook for the provisional cast-on

2 different kinds of markers
– 8 markers to mark the stitch patterns
– 4 markers for the sleevecap shaping

Gauge
23,5 sts and 38 rows stockinette stitch with the larger needle = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here

. . . slanted . . .

This was a real challenge and experiment in shaping. I started with the large shawl collar in 2 different rib patterns.stripe mod 7-.

Why not continue to knit sideways ? With the ribbing, maybe ? Not all of them, for sure. I wanted the body to be mainly stockinette stitch. Only a few ribbing sections than ?

As by miracle everything fell in it’s place when I continued the body. The slanted 2/2 ribbing at the bottom and at the top to shape the arm opening. It all seemed perfect, haha.
Can’t believe I came up with this construction. The body is closed at the back with contrasting 3 needle bind off’s.

stripe mod 9 -

stripe mod 4-

A slight A-line at the bottom shaped by working a few short rows.

Finally the sleeves are worked top down in the round.

Row gauge is quite important for this project as it is worked sideways. If you should make this with Superwash yarn like Wollmeise Pure for example, the cardigan will be longer (which is not too bad, I think). You can see some examples on the pattern page

Sizes: XS, S, M, L , XL, XXL
finished measurements (chest): 35.5 / 38.5 / 42.5 / 46.5 / 50.5 / 54.5 “ (90 / 98 / 108 / 118 / 128 / 138 cm )
Intended to be worn with of ± 12.5 to 20 cm / 5 to 8” of positive ease

What you’ll need
MC: ± 1250, 1350, 1470, 1600, 1750, 1880m (1370, 1500, 1620, 1750, 1920, 2060 yards) of fingering weight / 4 ply

CC: a left over of fingering weight / 4 ply
± 100 m / 110 yards

3,5 mm (US 4) circular needle
3,5 mm (US 4) straight needles
4,5 mm (US 7) needle for the 3 needle bind off
3 mm (US 2 1/2) circular needle for the sleeves
2,5 mm (US 1 1/2) circular needle
17 markers

Gauge
25 sts and 39 rows stockinette stitch with the middle sized needle (3,5 mm / US 4) = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here