how to … pompom and Co #1 …

Pompoms, tassels, curls …. even so many possibilities to finish a hat, scarf or shawl and give it a special touch. Even a dull colored hat can change dramatically depending on the pompom, its color or other embellishments.

How to make a pompom


Copy the circle below on a piece of cardboard and cut it out. Cut a 2nd one too. You need to make the circle a little larger than you want your pompom to be. I made  cardboard circles with a diameter of  8 cm / 3”. The pompom will be 8 cm / 3 ” – or less depending on how much yarn you will cut away to even it.


Hold the 2 cardboard circles together with the slits at the same side.

Wind the yarn all over the           Use different colors if you         The more you wind the
cardboards.                                  like.                                               fuller the pompom.

Starting at one of the slit
          Take care not to lose any       Cut a piece of yarn 
ends of the circle, slide your      yarn, so hold the middle        (± 20 cm / 8”) and 
scissors in between the two       area of the circle firmly.         slide it in between
cardboard layers and cut                                                            the cardboard layers and
through all the yarn wrapped                                                    tie very tightly.
around the top. 

Remove the cardboard circles and even the pompom with scissors.



A pompom can be made with anything yarn-like. Fun-fur, Fantasy yarn, Eyelash yarn, Novelty yarn: it has lot of names. I had some balls of that fun-fur in my stash for years and finally found a use for it.

How to make a fun-fur pompom


If you tried to make a pompom in the usual way with cardboard and sciccors (see above) you will see that making a pompom in Fun-fur is even easier. No need for cardboard and scissors at all.


funfur1         funfur2
Wind the fun-fur around                  When it is thick enough, 
your fingers.                                       break the yarn.

funfur3         funfur4
Cut a piece of matching                   (it doesn’t really look like a 

cotton or wool and tie it very          pompom now). Gently pull
tightly in the middle.                        out the fur with your fingers 
(Notice that I used the fun-              to give it the fluffy look.
fur to tie, but it’s better to
use a smooth yarn for this,
believe me)

Ready to attach to your hat or scarf or to anything you like.


BTW: this is my latest pattern: Prpl rain is a set containing a beanie and a long, vintage-like, narrow scarf, both with a very easy stitch pattern that is very useful to use with variegated yarns. It effectively breaks up the ‘pooling’ in these gorgeous skeins by the use of lots of yarn overs. It equally looks good in solid or semi-solids.

Check it out here

Next time more on this and these


. . . lavandula . . .

Gone live today on Ravelry: my latest design: Lavandula


It is an open front cardigan with a lace collar, large cozy pockets and the same lace on the hem and cuffs.

It can easily be altered to have buttons and buttonholes. The body is worked flat, top down and seamlessly in one piece. The shoulders and sleeve inset are worked using the contiguous method of Susie Myers.

The sleeves are worked top down and in the round ending with the same lace pattern on the cuffs. An incorporated I-cord edges the lace pattern all along. Off the needles and ready to wear apart from a few stitches to sew down the pockets at the inside.


I used Cascade Superwash to knit the sample. It grew and grew. Superwash, I should have known. It’s a bit long. But I think I like it long. it will be so cozy for colder weather 🙂

This is how it looked like. I like it but it is also quite heavy.


I finally removed one pattern repeat and now the length is much better. To do so I cut the thread in the 4 rows without lace pattern, undid one row in the same manner as I did with the afterthought pockets (see this post ) and frogged 27 more rows leaving me with 2 pieces: a top and a bottom piece with live stitches. I then grafted both sides together using the kitchener stitch.

Available for size: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements chest: 32 / 35 / 39¾ / 44½ / 48¾ / 53½ “(81 / 89 / 101 / 113 / 124 / 136 cm)

Intended to be worn with 6 to 15 cm / 2½ to 6 “ of positive ease.

What you’ll need
± 1100/1200/1360/1550/1700/1850 m (1200/1320/1480/1700/1850/2000 yards) worsted /10 ply weight
4 mm (US 6) circular needle and straight needles (if you prefer)
markers: it is best to use 2 different kind of markers:
· 4 markers to use in the lace pattern (m’s)
· 4 markers to mark the sleeves (M1 to M4)

Gauge: 19,5 sts and 27 rows in stockinette stitch

Check it out here

. . . B&W aka boomerang . . .

I made a large shawl, a wrap in brioche stitch… actually it are four different brioche stitch patterns…


B&W aka boomerang is a large, reversible, extra soft, boomerang-shaped shawl with four different brioche stitch patterns. It is worked bottom up and starts with an I-cord, stitches are picked up & knit to start working two of the brioche stitch patterns. From here the shawl has an incorporated I-cord edge and the two stitch patterns at both sides are started.

The brioche stitch patterns are charted and written.


Size is easily adaptable
as pictured: wingspan = ± 200 cm / 78”
depth at the largest tip: ± 56 cm / 22”

What you’ll need
fingering / 4 ply
Yardage depends on size of the shawl
As pictured
Color A (off white in the sample)
± 600 m / 660 yards
Color B (black in the sample)
± 650 m / 720 yards

3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
4 mm (US 6) 2 double pointed needles for the I-cord cast on and bind off
tapestry needle
3 markers


Gauge is not crucial but will affect the width of your shawl

gauge of the sample (unblocked)
22 sts and 24 ridges (or 48 rows) in garter stitch
22 sts and 28 rows (1 row is A+B) in brioche stitch

Check it out here

. . . mont blanc . . .

Now that autumn is around the corner it is time to present a pattern to you that I made a while ago, but never showed. I called it ‘mont blanc’ as the colorway I used for it. the yarn is Wollmeise DK in the so called colorway.mont blanc mod 7

The design grew as I was knitting it (top down, of course). The only element that I was sure of is the deep cabled V-neck that starts at the back.

Cropped or longer ? I like it cropped as some kind of sleeveless vest bot longer is maybe better.

WIPmont blanc mod 9

Sleeveless ?

or sleeves ? and what kind of sleeves ?

I decided for skinny ribbed sleeves. What do you think ?

A pic of the back 🙂

mont blanc mod 4

One could even make a cardigan of it (instructions included in the pattern) I don’t have pics to share. I am more of a pullover gal.

Mont blanc is a sleeveless vest … or a pullover with fitted sleeves … or a cardigan … all with a large V-neck and a gentle A-line. The cable panel is first worked bottom up at the back. Then stitches are cast on to work the sleeve caps and from here on, mont blanc is worked top down …

Available for size: XS, S/M, M/L, L/XL and XXL
finished measurements: 36½, 42, 46½, 50, 54 “ (93, 108, 118, 128, 137 cm)
Mont blanc is intended to be worn with lots of positive ease: 15 to 25 cm / 6 to 10”
Model is wearing the M/L size with 26 cm / 10 “ of positive ease.

What you’ll need
DK weight / 8ply
Yardage pullover without sleeves
± 900, 1000, 1100, 1250, 1450 m (990, 1100, 1200, 1360, 1600 yards)
Long sleeves
Add ± 200 to 300 m / 220 to 330 yards
If you make a cardigan you might need a little more.

4 mm (US 6) circular needle and straight needles or size to obtain gauge
3.5 mm (US 4 circular needle
8 markers

20 sts and 30 rows stockinette with
the larger needle = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here

. . . p’tits trous . . .

des p’tits trous, des p’tits trous, toujours des p’tits trous …

Do you recognize that song ?

ptits trous 6

P’tits trous is a shrug or cardigan. It is first worked sideways and back and forth starting in the middle of the back with a provisional cast on and a large hole (instructions included if you should want to omit the hole). Stitches are joined to work the sleeves top down in the round.

ptits trous shrug 2

  • Now it can become a shrug by adding ribbing all around.
  • Or it can grow into a A-line cardigan with delicate eyelet lines that flare out and naturally flow in the lace border.

ptits trous 12B

The cardigan is finished with an applied I-cord along the fronts and neckline.

P’tits trous est un boléro ou une veste. Commençant avec un montage provisoire au milieu du dos, le haut est travaillé en allers-retours et en travers. Puis les mailles sont jointes pour tricoter les manches en rond ‘top-down’ (du haut en bas).

Quand les manches sont faites, c’est le moment de choisir:

  • un boléro fini par quelques tours de côtés 1/1.
  • un gilet aux traits délicats formés par les jetés qui deviennent petit à petit plus grands et coulent naturellement dans le bord en dentelle.

La veste est finie avec un I-cord appliqué tout le long des devants et de l’encolure.

XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements: 32 / 35½ / 38½ / 43¾ / 48 / 52 “ (82 / 90 / 98 / 111 / 122 / 132 cm)

Intended to be worn with some positive ease (5 to 15 cm / 2 to 6 “)

What you’ll need
fingering / 4ply

shrug only
± 380, 420, 450, 500, 560, 620 m (420, 460, 500, 550, 620, 680 yards)

complete cardigan
± 1300, 1350, 1400, 1500, 1620, 1700m (1400, 1480, 1530, 1650, 1780, 1900 yards)

3 mm (US 2½) circular needle or double pointed needles and straight needles (optional)
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle or double pointed needles and straight needles (optional)

Available in English and Français: The pattern is split in 2 pdfs per language: 1 pdf for the smaller sizes (XS-S-M-L) and another pdf for the larger sizes (XL-XXL). So you will find 4 pdfs: 2 in English and 2 in French. Make sure you use the right pattern.

Check it out here

. . . to be continued . . .

To be continued is a striped pullover with a cute little slipped stitch pattern at the bottom that refers to the buttons on the shoulder.

to be continued

I hesitated a long time if I wanted sleeves or not, what kind of sleeves if so ?to be continued 2+


With ‘elbow sleeves’

They look equally good, but in the end I think I prefer it with the sleeves.

It has double knit hems and little pockets.

to be continued detail+

The hems are double knit and quite cleverly cast off. The cast edge off lies very flat and falls just at the inside of the hem and is therefore invisible.

On the left you see the right side: what you see at the bottom of the hem is a cute slip stitch row that makes the folding ridge. And on the right you see the wrong side with the cast-off edge at the bottom.

The pattern starts with a provisional cast on, the back is first worked bottom up and back and forth. Stitches are left on hold for the back neck and new stitches are cast on for the front neck. The front is worked top down. When reaching the armpits the body is worked further down in the round. It is finished with pockets and double knit hems.

A tutorial to cover the buttons with knitted fabric to refer to the dots of the slipped stitch pattern is included as well as a lot of schematics and illustrations of all techniques used.


The sleeves are worked top down and finished with a double knit cuff.

I made a second one in cool linen. It is now my favorite summer tee.

I switched the main color and contrast color when separating for sleeves and body because I had more of the dark color but I wanted the periwinkle at the top.

Sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements: 31½ / 35½ / 39½ / 43½ / 47½ / 51 “ (80 / 90 / 100 / 110 / 120 / 130 cm)
Intended to be worn with 7 to 13 cm / 3 to 5” of positive ease

What you’ll need

fingering weight / 4ply
sleeveless tee
MC (main color): ± 730, 820, 900, 1000, 1100, 1200 m (800, 900, 990, 1100, 1200, 1300 yards)
CC (contrasting color): ± 180, 200, 220, 250, 280, 300 m (200, 220, 240, 280, 310, 330 yards)
CC2: a small quantity ± 50 m (55 yards)

with elbow sleeves
add 250 to 400 m / 270 to 440 yards of MC
and 60 m / 66 yards of CC

3,25 mm (US 3) circular needle and straight needles or size to obtain gauge
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle and straight needles (optional)
4 markers
3 buttons in CC2 color + 1/1/2/2/2/3 buttons in MC

27 sts and 41 rows stockinette with
the larger needle = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)


Check it out here

. . . Stripeology . . .

Today a collection of 2 large shawls has been published.

Stripeology is a collection of 2 large garter shawls with a generous size … and jazzy feel. As a jazz player would pick a ‘Jazz standard’ and improvise on the melody, this modular shawl gives you the fun and opportunity to play with rhythm (the stripes) and improvise the colors.

octo boissy

Stripeology #1 has a circular spiral shape (diameter ± 90 cm / 35½” and a depth going from ± 32 to 44 cm / 12½ to 17¼”.
It is a very easy and fun project, ideal for mindless TV or travel knitting and a great way to use up stash yarns and combine colors. All the fun comes from choosing the next color and striping sequence. Completely worked in garter stitch with an incorporated I-cord edging worked at the same time. Only 5 purl stitches ^^ The first section is shaped using kfb increases. The next sections are worked using the easiest way of wrap and turn (no picking up any wraps)

octo 2-


Size of the sample
at the given gauge, diameter = ± 90 cm / 35½”
and a depth going from ± 32 to 44 cm / 12½ to 17¼”


#2 11

Stripeology #2 has a crescent shape with a wingspan of ± 130 cm / 51” and it involves more techniques than stripeology #1: stitches will be picked up & knitted along an I-cord and it also makes use of a 3 needle bind off. Completely worked in garter stitch with an incorporated I-cord edging worked at the same time. Only 5 purl stitches ^^ The first section is shaped using kfb increases. The second section involves picking up stitches from the I-cord and the following sections are worked using the easiest way of wrap and turn (no picking up any wraps). Finally the shawl is bound off using a 3 needle bind off.

Size of the sample
at the given gauge, wingspan = ± 130 cm / 51”
depth ± 62 cm / 24½

What you’ll need per shawl
fingering / 4 ply
Different colors of single skeins and rests
Total yardage (as pictured)
± 1400 m / 1550 yards

3.5 mm (US 4) straight needles
3.5 mm (US 4) double pointed needles for the cast on
tapestry needle

The gauge is not important but will affect the width of your shawl
gauge of the sample
24 sts and 26 ridges (or 52 rows) in garter stitch unblocked
= 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

octo boissy 2


Stripeology #1 and Stripeology #2 are bundled in one e-book: Stripeology

Check them out here and here