. . . traces . . .

Traces is kind of a pullover …
or a poncho with sleeves …

It started as an experiment in the center with a circular cast on like this:

4.5 mm / US 7 needle and Aran weight and steadily growing.

First it is worked in the round with large celtic cables. When a sufficient length is reached, the panels are worked back and forth to shape the neckline.

I had to perform some major surgery. The first panel I knit was too loose at the center creating some kind of bump in the middle. So, I snipped a stitch and undid one round.

I ripped back the center and reknit it changing the charts a little and using a smaller needle size. Then I joined the two pieces using kitchener stitch.

Front and back are joined at the shoulders knitting stitches together, but leaving the cables unjoined.

They are grafted later, giving the effect of the cables laying on top of the join.

A few short rows are added at the beginning of the sleeves for a better fit. They are worked top down in the round.

Choice between two neck finishes: a small rolled neckband or a large turtle neck.

A few more photos of the FO…

What you’ll need
Aran weight
± 1100, 1200, 1350 m
(1200, 1320, 1480 yards)
If you make it with a turtle neck, you will need an additional 120 to 150 m / 130 to 160 yards.
one long 4.5 mm (US 7) circular needle (minimum length 100 cm / 40”)
or three 4.5 mm (US 7) circular needles
two 4 mm (US 6) circular needles
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
cable needle
8 markers
crochet hook
scrap yarn

Gauge
stockinette stitch: 18 sts x 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”) with the larger needle

At this moment (february 26) the pattern contains only size M/L. S-petite and XL-tall are being testknit right now and will be added later (end of March 2020).

Check it out here to see more versions from the testknitters.

. . . A Mazing pullovers . . .

I really like mosaic knitting. It is so easy; only one color is worked per row or round. Colors are switched every 2 rounds…

But most of all they give quite special op-arty line drawings, especially when using large motifs, it is almost mesmerizing … So I really had to explore the possibilies and experiment with the technique.

One pattern with two different mosaic panels and  two sleeve options to choose from.
Mix and match…

A Mazing pullovers are worked in two colors. First the front panel is worked bottom up followed by the back panel which is worked top down.

The pattern includes a choice between two different mosaic stitch patterns and two kinds of stripes for the sides.

This is the yellow pullover with striped sleeves:

And this is the blue pullover with a slipped stitch variation on the sleeves:

The top of both panels with the neckline and shoulder shaping is written out but the basic mosaic pattern is charted, no written instructions.

Stitches are picked up & knit along the center panel to work the sides. Here you can easily adapt the size by working more or less rows.

A few short rows at the shoulders and beginning of the sleeves assure a better fit. The sleeves are worked top down in the round.

Finally the neckband is worked with an estonian braid and 2/2 corrugated ribbing.

What you’ll need
Sport weight or light DK weight
Yarn choice is important.
For the best effect, choose a round, bouncy wool with a lot of stretch

D (darker color):
610/680/750/830/900/980 m (670/750/830/910/1000/1100 yards)
L (light color):
500/550/600/660/720/800 m (550 /600/660/720/800/880 yards)

3 mm (US 2½) circular needle
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
3.5 mm (US 4) straight needles or extra circular needle for the 3-needle bind off
crochet hook
4 markers
tapestry needle

Gauge
Stockinette stitch blocked
23 sts and 34 rows with the larger needle
= 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

Slipped stitch variation blocked
25 sts and 38 rows with the larger needle
= 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

Find out more about them here

. . . fading mosaic . . .

A new pattern is up today: fading mosaic.

It is a modern tee or pullover featuring an overall mosaic stitch pattern – only one color is worked per row or round – and a gentle high-low hem.

It is seamlessly worked top down.

The slipped stitch bands that edge the sleeve opening and the V-neck are worked as you go, so there is no extra finishing to do. When it falls off the needles, it is ready to wear…

Unless you want longer sleeves…

Several options are given: you can make a short sleeved, cropped summer tee in cotton with a ‘no finishing look’ bind off method, a longer pullover in wool for colder winter days with a hem and cuffs in corrugated ribbing, or you can make a mix of both.

And, you can – as most of the testers did – make a short sleeved version and wear it right away and add the sleeves later when it gets colder 😉

And let’s talk about yarn choice. What a difference a yarn makes …

The first one I made was a cropped summer version in cotton and short sleeved.

The D (dark color) is a variegated cotton with quite long color repeats. The lightest color is almost the same tint as the L (light color).

It gives a very special fading effect. I like it 🙂

That is where the name of the pattern came from: fading mosaic.

As you can see I changed the mosaic pattern at the bottom (coz’ I got a little bored and wanted to try something else). That variation is included in the pattern.

The hem, is my very special –  no roll, minimal finishing – bind off method that I used before in a few other patterns.

But then, I still had some D yarn left, and I will wear this much more if I add sleeves – me thinks.

I added them by picking up stitches along the slipped stitch edge. It gives them a layered look, which is fun. The sleeves are in D. Here you can see the long color repeats, I didn’t add a second color. The same special bind off is used.

I like the patterning of these mosaic motifs very much. They are repetitive and still, they look like some handcrafted block printed fabrics.

I wanted to try that same pattern in solid colors to see what it would look like.

Halfway…

Body is finished… still sleeveless

Phew, that was close… That is all what’s left of the L, light color…

The photos at the start of this post are also the winter version in wool with a hem and cuffs in corrugated ribbing. Here are some more.

Sizes: XS / S / M / L / XL / XXL
finished measurements chest: 31½ / 35½ / 39½ / 43½ / 47¼ / 51“ (80 / 90 / 100 / 110 / 120 / 130 cm)
Intended to be worn with some positive ease (6 to 15 cm / 2½ to 6 “) at the high bust (under the armpits).

What you’ll need
DK weight
cropped summer version
cotton or cotton blends
D (dark color) ± 320/360/400/450/500/550 m (350/390/440/490/550/600 yards)
L (light color) ± 320/360/400/450/500/550 m (350/390/440/490/550/600 yards)
if you add 3/4 sleeves you will need more.

woolen winter version with long sleeves
wool
D (dark color) ± 500/550/610/680/750/820 m (550/600/670/740/820/900 yards)
L (light color) ± 500/550/610/680/750/820 m (550/600/670/740/820/900 yards)

4 mm (US 6) circular needle and 2 double pointed needles
4 mm (US 6) straight needles
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
4 markers

Gauge
stockinette stitch with the larger needle: 20 sts and 30 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)
mosaic stitch pattern: 22 sts and 38 rows (19 stripes) = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

The pattern has been tech edited and testknit.

Check it out here

. . . manneken . . .

And this is how 2019 starts…

A light weight pullover or tee with stripes and some mosaic knitting at the bottom of the body and sleeves.

Manneken is a pullover with a special construction…

There is no sewing, seaming or intarsia involved.

First the top of the sleeves is worked bottom up starting with a provisional cast on. Then, the body is worked top down, seamlessly joining to the sleeve tops as you go.
The provisional cast on is unraveled and the sleeves are worked top down.

A mosaic stitch pattern finishes the bottom (only one color is worked per round).

A special, clever bind off method is used to obtain a ‘minimal finishing look’ and to prevent stockinette stitch from rolling. A photo tutorial is included.

Did I mention I learned something from the knitted faces I made during last summers’ heatwave ?

And doesn’t this cherry blossom match perfectly with the pink yarn ?

The yarn is Olann Hand Dyed in Ireland Sock Lite, colorway ‘Manneken Pink’ custom dyed for my LYS: Kaleidoscope (yarnshop in Brussels)

Tech edited by Sue-Cat.

Sizes:
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements chest: 34 / 36 / 39½ / 45 / 48½ / 53 “ (86 / 92 / 101 / 114 / 122 / 135 cm)

What you’ll need
fingering / 4ply weight
MC ± 550/620/680/760/830/910 m (600/680/750/840/910/1000 yards)
CC body ± 185/200/220/245/260/290 m (200/220/240/270/290/320 yards)
CC sleeves: ± 250/280/320/350/380/400 m (270/310/350/380/420/440 yards)

two 3.5 mm (US 4) circular needles and straight needles (optional)
3.75 mm (US 5) circular needle for the mosaic stitch pattern
two 3.5 mm (US 4) double pointed needles or a circular needle for the I-cord at the neckline
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle for the other neckline (optional)
6 markers
tapestry needle

Gauge
stockinette with the 3.5 mm (US 4) needle size and blocked: 26 sts and 38 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

More info here

. . . squared . . .

Oups, I am a bit behind … 2 patterns have been published last month …

Let me present the one I am very proud of: Squared, a casual, oversized pullover with a sporty look and an innovative construction.
There is no sewing, seaming or intarsia involved. It is based on the same principle as . . . wild rose: the cardigan . . . and . . . Greenhouse knits #6 . . . but it is quite different.

First, the sleeves are worked bottom up (perfect as a giant swatch). Stitches are picked up as you go and put on hold to shape the steps of the ‘squared’ raglan sleeve inset. Then back and front are worked top down with an easy stitch pattern that continues the same idea of the stair shape and forms a waffle* structure.

 

A stair shaped hem finishes the body.

Finally a small rolled neck band is added in a contrasting color.

The pattern has been tech edited by @sue-cat111 on Instagram, Sue-Cat on Ravelry.

Sizes
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements chest: 38½, 42½, 46½, 50, 54, 58 “(98, 108, 118, 124, 138, 148 cm)
Intended to be worn with positive ease (20 to 40 cm / 8 to 16” ). Model is wearing size M with ± 25 cm / 10 “ of positive ease.

What you’ll need
DK weight
MC1 (body)
± 700/780/850/930/1020/1100 m (770/850/930/1020/1120/1200 yards)
MC2 (sleeves)
± 380/400/440/480/520/560 m (420/440/480/530/570/620 yards)
CC: 45 to 90 m ( 50 to 100 yards)
two 4 mm (US 6) circular needles
and straight needles (optional)
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle or double pointed needles
6 markers

Gauge stockinette with larger needle size and blocked: 21 sts and 32 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here

. . . pythagoras . . .

a² + b² = c²

Remember that formula ?

Three new patterns have been published based on that idea:

pythagoras’ pullover

a cozy, slightly oversized pullover with a turtle neck and (nearly) invisible sleeve inset.

It is worked top down seamlessly in one piece. The stitch pattern is easy, it consists of purl and knit stitches only that form a mix of triangles (pythagoras !). Special increases are placed in clever spots following the stitch pattern to make them invisible.

Sizes
Intended to be worn with positive ease (10 to 25 cm / 4 to 10”). Take the measurement at your high bust just under the armpits.
The sample is size M worn with 15 cm / 6” of positive ease.

There are only four sizes available due to the kind of the increases and their placement. But it is easy to alter the stitch gauge and thus obtain the best size. (instructions are provided)
S, M, L, XL: finished measurements: 35” / 40½” / 46” / 52“ (89 / 103 / 118 / 132 cm)

These photos are of the unblocked pullover

What you’ll need
DK weight
Total yardage: ± 1150, 1290, 1470, 1670 m (1250, 1400, 1600, 1820 yards)

4 mm (US 6) circular needle or size to obtain gauge
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
5 markers

Gauge
22 sts and 34 rows in stitch pattern (see page 3) with the larger needle and after blocking = 10 x 10 cm (4”x 4”)

 

Find out more here

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Then there is his hat …

This is the first hat I made … But what if I used 2 colors ?

Or the whole hat in 2 colors ? Maybe in a lighter yarn weight too ??

Three hats made from the same pattern …

Pythagoras’ hat is worked bottom up. Instructions are given for a beanie (length = 20 cm / 7¾”) or a bit of slouch (length = 24 cm / 9½”) and for 2 different yarn weights. Two options are included: a close fitting brim (2 color sample) or a loose fitting brim (red sample).

Due to the stitch pattern and the placement of the decreases there are only two sizes: one with 96 stitches for a heavy yarn weight and one with 128 stitches for a light yarn weight. If you use larger or smaller needles and a heavier or lighter yarn weight, the gauge will be different and most head sizes can be covered.

The stitch pattern is very easy and uses only purl and knit stitches – a perfectly good excuse to start playing. Work one repeat in stranded color knitting (see 2-colored hat), or knit the whole hat in 2 colors (or more). Instructions to personalize your hat are included.

Gauge
Finished measurement circumference is ± 50 cm / 19½” to fit head 54 to 57 cm / 20½” to 22½”
worsted weight
19 sts in stockinette stitch = 10 cm / 4” with the larger needle
or fingering weight
26 sts in stockinette stitch = 10 cm / 4” with the larger needle

Using another yarn weight results in a different gauge and size (instructions and maths included)

What you’ll need
worsted weight
± 100 to 130 m / 110 to 145 yards
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
4 mm (US 6) circular needle

or fingering weight
± 180 to 220 m / 200 to 240 yards
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle

tapestry needle

Find out more here

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 And then there is his beret …

This one really is my favorite …

Pythagoras’ beret is worked bottom up starting with a Latvian braided two-color cast on aka Kihnu braided cast on.

Written instructions are included and a photo tutorial can be found in the separate pdf. It’s a lovely way to start colorwork, but you can use any cast on method you might prefer.

Due to the stitch pattern and the placement of the decreases there are only two sizes: one with 144 stitches and 6 repeats of the crown chart and one with 168 stitches and 7 repeats of the crown chart. Instructions are given for both sizes.

at the left is the small beret and at the right the large beret

Sizes
Finished measurement circumference at the brim is ± 56 cm / 19½” to fit head 55 to 58 cm / 20½” to 22¾”
Diameter small beret = ± 24 cm / 9½”
Diameter large beret = ± 27 cm / 10½”

What you’ll need
sport weight or light DK weight
± 160 to 200 m / 175 to 220 yards (half of each color)
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
tapestry needle

Gauge
21 sts and 33 rows in stranded pattern with the larger needle and blocked = 10 x 10 cm / 4” x 4”

Check it out here

I have the feeling there will be more of these . . .

. . . babe . . .

No intarsia, no picking up stitches, no sewing yet it is seamless and in one piece.

Babe is a pullover with a special construction.

First both sleeves are worked bottom up and in the round – perfect as a giant swatch 😉

They are extra long with randomly placed stripes for a playful effect. The raglan shaping is worked flat with ‘live’ stitches at both sides. Then stitches are cast on for the back which is worked top down with a squishy, stretchy, extra-soft, textured stitch pattern joining to the sleeves as you go until the armhole is reached. The front is worked in the same manner.

a few photos of the WIP (work in progress)

Then front and back are joined to work the body in the round. A split hem that is longer at the back finishes the body.
Finally, a small rolled neck band is added.

Sizes:
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements chest: 29½, 33, 36¼, 41, 44, 48½ “ (75, 84, 92, 104, 112, 123 cm)
Intended to be worn with no ease or a little positive ease.

What you’ll need
fingering / 4ply weight
MC ± 1150/1300/1450/1650/1750/1950 m (1250/1450/1600/1800/1900/2150 yards)
CC ± 125/140/150/170/185/200 m (135/155/165/185/200/220 yards)
CC2: a small rest: 45 to 90 m (50 to 100 yards)
two 3.5 mm (US 4) circular needles and straight needles (optional)
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle or double pointed needles
6 markers

Gauge
26 sts and 37 rows in stockinette stitch with the larger needle and blocked

more info here

. . . hallerbos . . .

I was reknitting  the neckband on a beautiful sunny spring day in the garden. There were lots of bluebells under the three large trees and they were in full flower. When I saw that color, it was like a perfect match with the color of my yarn. That’s how it got its name. I adore that color. Wollmeise Pure – of course, who else –  in colorway ‘Taube’.

Hallerbos is famous for its fields of bluebells under the birch trees. People come in large numbers to see it when they are flowering in spring.

 

Hallerbos: a memory of bluebells in the spring, a cute stitch pattern, a special but very easy construction. It is the perfect little summer pullover for chilly mornings or evenings.

BTW Do you recognize this stitch pattern ?

It is the same one I used in the ‘never say never’ socks.

Hallerbos is worked seamlessly in pieces. First the front and back are worked bottom up with that cute stitch pattern. Then stitches are picked up & knit to work the sides sideways and back and forth. Increases and decreases shape the high-low hem and a few short rows are added for a perfect fit around the shoulders. The sides are closed using a 3 needle bind off and from here the sleeves are worked top down in the round. Finally stitches are picked up around the neck-line to work the neck band.

Instructions for short sleeves or 3/4 sleeves are included.

As with all my patterns lots of schematics and photos that illustrate all techniques used.

Sizes
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements: 30¾, 34½, 38½, 43, 46½, 50½ “ (78, 88, 98, 107, 118, 128 cm)

What you’ll need
± 950/1120/1250/1380/1520/1650 m (1050/1220/1370/1500/1670/1800 yards) fingering / 4ply weight

two 3 mm (US 2½) circular needles, or one 3 mm (US 2½) circular needle and one straight needle, 3 mm straight needles (optional)
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle
4 markers

Gauge
26 sts and 40 rows stockinette stitch with the larger needle = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)
28 sts and 48 rows in stitch pattern with the larger needle = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

Check it out here

… and amande tee …

And here comes amande tee, the 3rd one in my amande series

Amande tee is a pullover or a tee with a very unusual construction, similar to her sisters amandine cardigan and amande cardigan here and here

It is worked seamlessly, as the amande cardigan, in the round from the shouldertop downwards and sideways. A bit tricky to start the special shoulder shaping, but after that it’s an easy knit. Body and the sleeves are worked in the round from the top down.

I used two different colors to show off the unique construction.