. . . Florally – the pullover . . .

More info and examples here

When I was drawing the chart for this hat, I knew I would do more with it.

The original chart was much larger than what the part I used to make the hat…

I just didn’t know yet what I would make of the whole chart…

Until I dug up two beautful dark colored skeins of Dye For Yarn… and a blueish-greyish-natural skein from Snail Yarns.

They work so well together, the dark bordeaux looks almost velvet against the naturals.

Florally is a loose pullover with a V-neck, drop shoulders, 3/4 sleeves and a unique colorwork pattern at the bottom. Starting with a provisional cast on, the back is first worked bottom up and back and forth.

Stitches are bound off for the back neck, a subtle patterned saddle shoulder is worked followed by the fronts that are knitted top down to the armpits.

The saddle shoulder is quite subtle with a leaf motif in purl stitches and a third color – if desired.

Here is a little trick when joining both fronts of the V-neck worked top down. When you have knit both fronts to the right length and you join them, it often looks sloppy with a few elongated stitches at that join. To reinforce the join there is a simple trick: twist the last stitch of the right front and the first stitch of the left front you are joining to…

So, knit to the last stitch (or two stitches) of right front – in the photo above you can see that I twisted 4 stitches (2 at each front) -, place those stitch(es) on a cable needle and hold in front, then knit 1 or 2 stitches at the beginning of the left front, knit the stitches from the cable needle and continue the row (of course you don’t need a cable needle to twist those stitches, you can do it without, I only used it to explain the principle).

Another – even easier – method is to k2tog those 2 stitches, but you will end up having 1 stitch less.

From this point the body is worked further down in the round.
Stitches are picked up for the sleeves which are worked top down and in the round with a smaller motif at the cuffs.

Finally an applied I-cord finishes the neckline.

Sizes
XS / S / M / L / XL / XXL / XXXL
finished measurements chest: 31½, 34½, 39, 43, 47, 50½, 54“ (80, 88, 100, 109, 119, 129, 138 cm)
Intended to be worn with 7 to 13 cm / 3 to 5” of positive ease

What you’ll need
fingering weight / 4ply
sleeveless tee
MC1: ± 730, 820, 950, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1300 m (800, 900, 990, 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400 yards)
CC: ± 180, 200, 220, 250, 280, 300, 340 m (200, 220, 240, 280, 310, 330, 370 yards)
MC2 (optional) a small quantity ± 50 m (55 yards)
with elbow sleeves
add 200 to 350 m / 220 to 380 yards of MC1
and 60 m / 66 yards of CC

3 mm (US 2½) circular needle and straight needles (optional) or size to obtain gauge
3.25 mm (US 3) circular needle
2.75 mm (US 2) circular needle
3 mm (US 2½) double pointed needle
cable needle
4 markers
scrap yarn or stitch holders

Gauge
10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”) = 27.5 sts and 40 rows stockinette with the 3 mm / US 2½ needle
or 27.5 sts and 38 rows in stranded colorwork with the 3.25 mm / US 3 needle.

More info and examples here

. . . Evidemment . . .

It all started when I tried out this beautiful cable pattern and made a little swatch.

I like it a lot, sure I will use this in a new design.

I already had a faint idea of what it should become. Years ago I had made some sketches for a special construction and I want to try it out. This looked like the right project for this mini swatch.

Changed the basic chart to make it a double cable which later on will undouble …

So here it is: a double cable pattern starting at with a provisional cast on at the center of the back neck.

After having worked the cable at a sufficient length, the provisional cast on is unzipped and the other side of the neck is worked.

Then the double cable splits forming the front cable bands and the bands on the sleeves.

Photo of the WIP: trying out the shape and length of the sleeves first.

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Évidemment is an open front cardigan with drop shoulders, a beautiful cable pattern and some special details.

The cardigan has an easy shape and a loose fit, perfect to slip over your shirt on a chilly morning.

Couldn’t waste that cute little swatch. It is sewn on as a mini pocket.

Sizes
XS / S / M / L / XL / XXL
finished measurements chest: 41.25 / 46 / 50.25 / 54 / 58.25 / 61.75 “ (105 / 117 / 128 / 137 / 148 / 157 cm)
Intended to be worn with lots of positive ease (20 to 50 cm / 8 to 20”).
The sample is size M worn with 36 cm / 14” of positive ease.

What you’ll need
fingering weight
± 1350/1550/1650/1760/1900/2030 m (1480/1700/1800/1950/2100/2220 yards)

3 mm (US 2½) circular needle or size to obtain gauge
3 mm (US 2½) straight needles (optional)
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle
cable needle
stitch holders or scrap yarn
3 markers

Gauge
28 sts and 41 rows in dot pattern with the larger needle and blocked = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

Find out more here

. . . magic loops . . .

This is such a fun, little project 😀

A quick knit to work up all kind of little rests. It doesn’t take a lot of yarn or time and weighs almost nothing.

Usually these kind of chains are made by knitting strips and sewing them to form rings.

With this method there are no ugly seams to close the rings, they are worked seamlessly and in the round.

The pattern is written for magic loop, but it is possible to make them using double pointed needles, although I didn’t try that.

Make a bunch of them in all your favorite colors or knit a large garland to decorate a wall.

They also makes quick, great gifts to your loved ones.

The possibilities are endless.

Use any yarn weight you find. The samples use different colors in sport weight and fingering weight and a 2.5 mm / US 1½ needle. The diameter of a ring in the sample is about 4 cm (1½”) and it uses only 3.5 m / 5½ to 3.8 yards.

I made three necklaces in different lengths: the longest necklace measures 100 cm / 39½” and uses 31 rings, the medium one measures and uses 22 rings and the smallest one measures and uses 16 rings.

Size: that is up to you

Gauge: not important

What you’ll need
any yarn weight: little rests in one or different colors.
One element in fingering weight uses between 3 and 4 m / 3¼ and 4½ yards of yarn. A heavier yarn weight uses a little more.

Circular needle in a size to match your yarn.
Work light fingering weight with a 2 mm or 2.25 mm / US 0 or 1 needle,
sport weight with a 2.5 mm / US 1½ needle (as the samples)
DK weight with a 3 mm / US 2½ needle, …

tapestry needle to weave in ends

Read more here

. . . fading mosaic . . .

A new pattern is up today: fading mosaic.

It is a modern tee or pullover featuring an overall mosaic stitch pattern – only one color is worked per row or round – and a gentle high-low hem.

It is seamlessly worked top down.

The slipped stitch bands that edge the sleeve opening and the V-neck are worked as you go, so there is no extra finishing to do. When it falls off the needles, it is ready to wear…

Unless you want longer sleeves…

Several options are given: you can make a short sleeved, cropped summer tee in cotton with a ‘no finishing look’ bind off method, a longer pullover in wool for colder winter days with a hem and cuffs in corrugated ribbing, or you can make a mix of both.

And, you can – as most of the testers did – make a short sleeved version and wear it right away and add the sleeves later when it gets colder 😉

And let’s talk about yarn choice. What a difference a yarn makes …

The first one I made was a cropped summer version in cotton and short sleeved.

The D (dark color) is a variegated cotton with quite long color repeats. The lightest color is almost the same tint as the L (light color).

It gives a very special fading effect. I like it 🙂

That is where the name of the pattern came from: fading mosaic.

As you can see I changed the mosaic pattern at the bottom (coz’ I got a little bored and wanted to try something else). That variation is included in the pattern.

The hem, is my very special –  no roll, minimal finishing – bind off method that I used before in a few other patterns.

But then, I still had some D yarn left, and I will wear this much more if I add sleeves – me thinks.

I added them by picking up stitches along the slipped stitch edge. It gives them a layered look, which is fun. The sleeves are in D. Here you can see the long color repeats, I didn’t add a second color. The same special bind off is used.

I like the patterning of these mosaic motifs very much. They are repetitive and still, they look like some handcrafted block printed fabrics.

I wanted to try that same pattern in solid colors to see what it would look like.

Halfway…

Body is finished… still sleeveless

Phew, that was close… That is all what’s left of the L, light color…

The photos at the start of this post are also the winter version in wool with a hem and cuffs in corrugated ribbing. Here are some more.

Sizes: XS / S / M / L / XL / XXL
finished measurements chest: 31½ / 35½ / 39½ / 43½ / 47¼ / 51“ (80 / 90 / 100 / 110 / 120 / 130 cm)
Intended to be worn with some positive ease (6 to 15 cm / 2½ to 6 “) at the high bust (under the armpits).

What you’ll need
DK weight
cropped summer version
cotton or cotton blends
D (dark color) ± 320/360/400/450/500/550 m (350/390/440/490/550/600 yards)
L (light color) ± 320/360/400/450/500/550 m (350/390/440/490/550/600 yards)
if you add 3/4 sleeves you will need more.

woolen winter version with long sleeves
wool
D (dark color) ± 500/550/610/680/750/820 m (550/600/670/740/820/900 yards)
L (light color) ± 500/550/610/680/750/820 m (550/600/670/740/820/900 yards)

4 mm (US 6) circular needle and 2 double pointed needles
4 mm (US 6) straight needles
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
4 markers

Gauge
stockinette stitch with the larger needle: 20 sts and 30 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)
mosaic stitch pattern: 22 sts and 38 rows (19 stripes) = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

The pattern has been tech edited and testknit.

Check it out here