. . . pythagoras’ tee . . .

Do you remember these ?

Pythagoras’ mitts, beret, hats and pullover. I can’t stop playing with these triangular shapes… They have something fascinating.

So now there is a new item in the collection: Pythagoras’ tee with triangles in stranded colorwork. I had this in my mind since I made the berets and the hats…

mod grimberg 2

It is so fun and interesting to try out different increases to make them as unnoticeable as possible…

_DSC4774 mod grimberg inv 2

I am quite enjoying stranded colorwork now, since I learned to knit with one color in each hand – and I am getting better and better in it. 😀

Gosh, I see a mistake in the photo above that I never noticed before 😉

puthago+hemd mod 2

Pythagoras’ tee is a cute, slightly oversized tee or pullover with a nearly invisible sleeve inset.
It is worked top down and seamlessly in one piece. The colorwork pattern is easy, it consists of light and dark stitches that form a mix of triangles (pythagoras !). Tips on colorwork and stranded knitting are included.

_DSC4780 mod grimberg inv

Special, cleverly placed increases are worked following the colorwork pattern and that makes them nearly invisible.

_DSC4789 mod grimberg pocket

pocket

Little striped pockets, a large hem with a checked pattern and a striped, turned hem finish the body.

The checked pattern gives the body a natural flare and a gentle A-line (no extra increases are worked).

wip

A photo of the WIP (work in progress). It looks cute with short sleeves, doesn’t it ?

Not sure what I will do wih the sleeves. Short is cute, but I think I will get more wear of it has longer sleeves…

Short ?

Long ?

Both options are included: short sleeves or 3/4 sleeves at the same length as the body.

long or short

_DSC4803 mod grimberg 5

In the meantime, I am getting quite used to the different sleeves, haha.

Sizes
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements chest: 34½, 37, 41, 45, 50, 54 “ (88, 94, 105, 114, 127, 138 cm)

Intended to be worn with some positive ease (6 to 15 cm / 2½ to 6 “) at the high bust (under the armpits).
The sample is size M worn with 16 cm / 6¼” of positive ease at the high bust.

What you’ll need
fingering weight
Total yardage for the short sleeved tee: ± 1250, 1380, 1500, 1600, 1800, 1950 m (1370, 1500, 1650, 1750, 2000, 2150 yards)
Half of each color (D and L)
If you add 3/4 sleeves, you will need about 200 m / 220 yards more per color.

3 mm (US 2½) circular needle or size to obtain gauge
two 3 mm (US 2½) double pointed needles or straight needles
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle
crochet hook
6 markers
tapestry needle

Gauge
29 sts and 34.5 rows in stranded stitch pattern = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

The pattern has been tech edited by Sue-Cat on Ravelry.

Check it out here

All pythagoras’ patterns are bundeled in one e-book: Pythagoras

I think Pythagoras needs a pair of new socks too…

wip

 

. . . Celtic hoodie . . .

More cabling … I am getting the taste of it …

_DSC3271carre

Two squares, two triangles and two tubes. Throw some cable patterns and some Celtic knots in and you get: a Celtic hoodie constructed in a special manner.

_DSC3315+

It is worked top down and is completely seamless. First the hood is worked flat in one piece. When it is long enough stitches are cast on for the body which is basically a rectangle with a cabled texture.

The top of the body is folded to the front to form the shoulders. Next, the sleeves are worked in the round. Like this …

xxx wip

This photo is without the hood because I started with a provisional cast on and added the hood later. But the pattern starts with the hood first.

Stitches are picked up along the hood and body to work a cabled edge that fluently flows in the Celtic knots at the fronts.

_DSC3299-

 

It has been some kind of a puzzle to draw these Celtic knots continuously without a beginning and an end …

Well, there are two ends, I must admit, so it is more Celtic bits and ends, haha.

_DSC3307-carre

The cables and celtic knits are charted and fully written out.
There are some special increases that are more rounded than usual: a photo tutorial for these special increases and decreases is included.

Lots of illustrations and schematics are added, everything you need is right there while you’re working. There is no need to search on the www.

Sizes
S-M / L-XL / XXL
finished measurements chest: 46½ / 52 / 56“ (120 / 132 / 144 cm)
Intended to be worn with lots of positive ease (20 to 50 cm / 8 to 20”). The sample is size S-M worn with 30 cm / 12” of positive ease.

What you’ll need
worsted weight / 10ply
Total yardage: ± 1350, 1500, 1650 m (1500, 1650, 1800 yards)

5 mm (US 8) circular needle or size to obtain gauge
4.5 mm (US 7) circular needle
cable needle
5 markers

Gauge
19 sts and 26 rows in stitch pattern with the larger needle and blocked = 10 x 10 cm (4”x 4”)

Find out more here

_DSC3289+carre

_DSC3279+carre

_DSC3280-carre

Bye, bye…

I think I will be using those Celtic cables again for something else … Stay tuned …

. . . from braided leaves . . .

I am a bit (a lot) behind presenting my latest patterns. This post will cover the patterns from the last months of 2018.

Let’s start with ‘braided leaves’. I adored knitting and designing this pattern.

leaf mosaic WIP3

Looking at all the photos I took to illustrate this design, I think it’s better to make one blog post per pattern after all.

leafmosaic mod 2-

leafmosaic mod 6+-

Braided leaves is a pullover with stranded colorwork and eyelets at the yoke. Some nice, colored or ‘twisted’ details make this a uniquely designed pullover.

leafmosaic mod top

tilting eyelets at the yoke

It is worked top down and seamlessly in the round. It starts with a twisted neck band followed by a few short rows to shape the back neck. The circular yoke is build up using eyelets on top of each other giving the yoke a dynamic twist.

detail neck with leaves

A few more increases are added while knitting the colorwork of the braided leaves. The same idea of twist is used for the pocket bands, the cuffs and ribbing at the bottom.

pocket detail with leaf

twisted pocket band

A simpler version of the leaves is added to the sleeve cuffs and the inside of the small pockets is worked in stranded knitting.

leafmosaic mod pocket

stranded pockets and ’tilting’ hem

The colorwork is charted only, (no written instructions).
Tips on how to successfully knit stranded colorwork are included.

This pattern has been tech edited by Sue-Cat and test knit.

Sizes
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements (chest): 31½, 35½, 39½, 43½, 47½, 51” (80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 130 cm)
Intended to be worn with some positive ease.

What you’ll need
fingering weight / 4 ply
MC: ± 1000/1100/1200/1350/1450/1600 m (1100/1200/1310/14750/1600/1750 yards)
CC: ± 140/155/170/190/210/230 m (155/170/185/210/230/255 yards)

two 3 mm (US 2½) circular needles
3 mm (US 2½) double pointed needle
3 mm (US 2½) straight needles for the pocket bands
3.25 mm (US 3) circular needle for the stranded colorwork, if necessary
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle for the ribbing

4 markers
or 10/11/12/12/13/13 markers if you wish to place markers between repeats

Gauge
27 sts and 38 rows stockinette stitch with the 3 mm (US 2½) needle = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

Check it out here.

. . . wild rose: the cardigan . . .

The pattern for the cardigan has been released . . . The set of wild roses is complete.

rose babe sleeve

Wild rose is a cardigan with an innovative construction in the same manner as her sister Babe.

There is no sewing, seaming or intarsia involved. First, the sleeves are worked bottom up featuring delicate branches and flowers in stranded colorwork.

rose babe mod 11

Then the body is worked top down with a stretchy, leafy lace stitch pattern. Finally, stitches are picked up to work the button bands. The colorwork is charted only and is bundled in a separate pdf providing more tips on working fair isle and stranded knitting.

Sizes
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements chest: 33, 35½, 39¼, 44, 48, 54¼ “ (84, 90, 100, 112, 122, 138 cm)

Intended to be worn with positive ease (6 to 25 cm / 2½ to 10”). To decide which is the best size for you, measure your high bust (under the armpits) and check also your arm circumference. Model is wearing M with ± 10 cm / 4“ of positive ease.

What you’ll need
fingering / 4ply weight
MC1 (main color of the body) ± 950/1050/1150/1300/1400/1600 m (1050/1150/1260/1450/1550/1750 yards)
MC2 (main color of the sleeves) ± 470/500/550/600/660/750 m (520/550/600/660/720/820 yards)
CC1 (green in the sample): 45 to 90 m ( 50 to 100 yards)
and CC2 (white in the sample): 45 to 90 m (50 to 100 yards)
2.75 mm (US 2) circular needle for the cuffs and buttonbands
two 3.25 mm (US 3) circular needles and straight needles (optional)
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle or double pointed needles to work the sections with the stranded flowers (if necessary)
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle or straight needles to work the bottom part of the body
6 markers
6 buttons (diameter 18 mm / ¾” )

Gauge
stockinette with the 3.25 mm (US 3) needle and blocked: 28 sts and 40 rows
= 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Find out more here

. . . appelblauwzeegroen . . .

The word ‘appelblauwzeegroen’ to designate the color of the sample (between blue and green) is only used in Dutch speaking Belgium.

Learned that from wiktionary

appelblauw-

Beautiful colors from Wollmeise in Pure.

And this is what it became …

appelblauw 3+

Apple blue, sea green is a short sleeved henley pullover with an asymmetrical high low, faux-pleated peplum worked top down seamlessly in the round. There are different options included to place the asymmetrical peplum: a peplum starting high on the left side and low on the right side as the sample, or high at the front and low at the back or vice versa.

appelblauw 4+-

The shoulder and sleeves construction is an improved version of the one I use in many of my pullovers and cardis (inspired by the contiguous method of Susie Myers). I found a way to work them without breaking any yarn.

Best worn with no ease or a little positive ease. Choose the size that is equal or a bit larger than your high bust measurement (under the armpit). If you should want more ease or if you are large busted, it is best to start with the numbers of the size closest to yours and add more increases for the body and sleeves.

Sizes:
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL finished measurements: 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48 “ (72, 82, 92, 102, 112, 122 cm)

What you’ll need
fingering weight / 4 ply: 4 colors, but it would equally look good in just one color.
Total yardage: ± 1060, 1170, 1290, 1435, 1640, 1800 m (1160, 1280, 1410, 1570, 1800, 2000 yards)

Detailed yardage (as pictured).
color A (top) ± 180, 200, 220, 245, 270, 320 m (200, 220, 240, 270, 300, 350 yards)
color B ± 230, 250, 270, 300, 330, 370 m (250, 275, 300, 330, 360, 400 yards)
color C ± 160, 180, 200, 230, 250, 280 m (175, 200, 220, 250, 275, 310 yards)
color D (bottom) ± 490, 540, 600, 660, 720, 780 m (540, 590, 660, 720, 790, 850 yards)

3 mm (US 2½) circular needle or size to obtain gauge
2.5 mm (US 1½ ) circular needle
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
4 markers
crochet hook for the provisional cast-on
bobbin (optional)
4 buttons: 15 mm / 0.6” diameter

Gauge: 27 stitches and 36 rows = 10 cm
in stockinette stitch with the larger needle

Check it out here

. . . yin yang dance . . .

Cables, eyelets, lace mesh, skinny sleeves, an unusual construction …
One of my test knitters came up with the name and it’s perfect, thank you, Sue …

yin-yng-9

It all starts with a loop … an I-cord loop (see back of the pullover)continue-i-cord

yin-yang-6

Yin yang dance is a modern, slightly oversized pullover with skinny sleeves.
After having worked the I-cord and the loop, stitches are picked up & knit to work the yoke and sleeves sideways in 3/1 rib later changing to 1/1 rib for the cuffs.

Then, stitches are picked up & knit to work the body top down with a cable and lace motif at the front. The motif is charted and written.

Two more small cable motifs finish the high-low hems at the sides and the sleeve cuffs.

yin-yang-12

yin-yang-detail

One of the test knitters made a variation of the front motif. She made a new chart for it. It is added on an extra page at the end. Thank you, Kate, (GardenKate on Ravelry)
Also thank you, Sue, (Sue-Cat on ravelry) who came up with the name.

Sizes
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL  finished measurements: 32¼, 36¼, 39½, 43½, 47¼, 50½ “ (82, 92, 100, 110, 120, 128 cm)
Intended to be worn with 6 to 15 cm / 2½ to 6 “ of positive ease.

What you’ll need
± 1000/1100/1150/1250/1350/1450 m (1100/1200/1250/1350/1450/1600 yards) dk / 8ply weight
4 mm (US 6) circular needle and 2 double pointed needles
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
3 markers

Gauge
20 sts and 28 rows stockinette
= 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here

. . . lavandula . . .

Gone live today on Ravelry: my latest design: Lavandula

lavandula-7

It is an open front cardigan with a lace collar, large cozy pockets and the same lace on the hem and cuffs.

It can easily be altered to have buttons and buttonholes. The body is worked flat, top down and seamlessly in one piece. The shoulders and sleeve inset are worked using the contiguous method of Susie Myers.

The sleeves are worked top down and in the round ending with the same lace pattern on the cuffs. An incorporated I-cord edges the lace pattern all along. Off the needles and ready to wear apart from a few stitches to sew down the pockets at the inside.

 

I used Cascade Superwash to knit the sample. It grew and grew. Superwash, I should have known. It’s a bit long. But I think I like it long. it will be so cozy for colder weather 🙂

This is how it looked like. I like it but it is also quite heavy.

lavandula

I finally removed one pattern repeat and now the length is much better. To do so I cut the thread in the 4 rows without lace pattern, undid one row in the same manner as I did with the afterthought pockets (see this post ) and frogged 27 more rows leaving me with 2 pieces: a top and a bottom piece with live stitches. I then grafted both sides together using the kitchener stitch.

Available for size: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements chest: 32 / 35 / 39¾ / 44½ / 48¾ / 53½ “(81 / 89 / 101 / 113 / 124 / 136 cm)

Intended to be worn with 6 to 15 cm / 2½ to 6 “ of positive ease.

What you’ll need
± 1100/1200/1360/1550/1700/1850 m (1200/1320/1480/1700/1850/2000 yards) worsted /10 ply weight
4 mm (US 6) circular needle and straight needles (if you prefer)
markers: it is best to use 2 different kind of markers:
· 4 markers to use in the lace pattern (m’s)
· 4 markers to mark the sleeves (M1 to M4)

Gauge: 19,5 sts and 27 rows in stockinette stitch

Check it out here

. . . mont blanc . . .

Now that autumn is around the corner it is time to present a pattern to you that I made a while ago, but never showed. I called it ‘mont blanc’ as the colorway I used for it. The yarn is Wollmeise DK in the so called colorway.mont blanc mod 7

The design grew as I was knitting it (top down, of course). The only element that I was sure of is the deep cabled V-neck that starts at the back.

start at the back

A bad photo of the WIP, such a pity I didn’t take more photos of the construction. I got too carried away to see if it works, I guess. Here you see the start of the cables at the back neck. At the right you see the stitches that are picked up & knit to start work the back and right sleeve.

Cropped or longer ? I like it cropped as some kind of sleeveless vest, but making it a bit longer is maybe a better idea.

WIPmont blanc mod 9

Sleeveless ?

or sleeves ? and what kind of sleeves ?

I opted for skinny ribbed sleeves. What do you think ?

A pic of the back 🙂

mont blanc mod 4

One could even make a cardigan of it (instructions included in the pattern) I don’t have pics to share. I am more of a pullover kind of ‘gal’.

Mont blanc is a sleeveless vest … or a pullover with fitted sleeves … or a cardigan … all with a large V-neck and a gentle A-line. The cable panel is first worked bottom up at the back. Then stitches are cast on to work the sleeve caps and from here on, mont blanc is worked top down …

Sizes
Available for size: XS, S/M, M/L, L/XL and XXL
finished measurements: 36½, 42, 46½, 50, 54 “ (93, 108, 118, 128, 137 cm)
Mont blanc is intended to be worn with lots of positive ease: 15 to 25 cm / 6 to 10”
Model is wearing the M/L size with 26 cm / 10 “ of positive ease.

What you’ll need
DK weight / 8ply
Yardage pullover without sleeves
± 900, 1000, 1100, 1250, 1450 m (990, 1100, 1200, 1360, 1600 yards)
Long sleeves
Add ± 200 to 300 m / 220 to 330 yards
If you make a cardigan you might need a little more.

4 mm (US 6) circular needle and straight needles or size to obtain gauge
3.5 mm (US 4 circular needle
8 markers

Gauge
20 sts and 30 rows stockinette with
the larger needle = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here

. . . p’tits trous . . .

des p’tits trous, des p’tits trous, toujours des p’tits trous …

Do you recognize that song ?

ptits trous 6

P’tits trous is a shrug or cardigan. It is first worked sideways and back and forth starting in the middle of the back with a provisional cast on and a large hole (instructions included if you should want to omit the hole). Stitches are joined to work the sleeves top down in the round.

ptits trous shrug 2

  • Now it can become a shrug by adding ribbing all around.
  • Or it can grow into a A-line cardigan with delicate eyelet lines that flare out and naturally flow in the lace border.

ptits trous 12B

The cardigan is finished with an applied I-cord along the fronts and neckline.

P’tits trous est un boléro ou une veste. Commençant avec un montage provisoire au milieu du dos, le haut est travaillé en allers-retours et en travers. Puis les mailles sont jointes pour tricoter les manches en rond ‘top-down’ (du haut en bas).

Quand les manches sont faites, c’est le moment de choisir:

  • un boléro fini par quelques tours de côtés 1/1.
  • un gilet aux traits délicats formés par les jetés qui deviennent petit à petit plus grands et coulent naturellement dans le bord en dentelle.

La veste est finie avec un I-cord appliqué tout le long des devants et de l’encolure.

Sizes
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements: 32 / 35½ / 38½ / 43¾ / 48 / 52 “ (82 / 90 / 98 / 111 / 122 / 132 cm)

Intended to be worn with some positive ease (5 to 15 cm / 2 to 6 “)

What you’ll need
fingering / 4ply

shrug only
± 380, 420, 450, 500, 560, 620 m (420, 460, 500, 550, 620, 680 yards)

complete cardigan
± 1300, 1350, 1400, 1500, 1620, 1700m (1400, 1480, 1530, 1650, 1780, 1900 yards)

3 mm (US 2½) circular needle or double pointed needles and straight needles (optional)
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle or double pointed needles and straight needles (optional)
stitchmarkers

Available in English and Français: The pattern is split in 2 pdfs per language: 1 pdf for the smaller sizes (XS-S-M-L) and another pdf for the larger sizes (XL-XXL). So you will find 4 pdfs: 2 in English and 2 in French. Make sure you use the right pattern.

Check it out here

. . . to be continued . . .

To be continued is a striped pullover with a cute little slipped stitch pattern at the bottom that refers to the buttons on the shoulder.

to be continued

I hesitated a long time if I wanted sleeves or not, what kind of sleeves if so ?to be continued 2+

Sleeveless

With ‘elbow sleeves’

They look equally good, but in the end I think I prefer it with the sleeves.

It has little pockets.

to be continued detail+

The hems are double knit and quite cleverly cast off. The cast edge off lies very flat and falls just at the inside of the hem and is therefore invisible.

On the left you see the right side: what you see at the bottom of the hem is a cute slip stitch row that makes the folding ridge. And on the right you see the wrong side with the cast-off edge at the bottom.

The pattern starts with a provisional cast on, the back is first worked bottom up and back and forth. Stitches are left on hold for the back neck and new stitches are cast on for the front neck. The front is worked top down. When reaching the armpits the body is worked further down in the round. It is finished with pockets and double knit hems.

A tutorial to cover the buttons with knitted fabric to refer to the dots of the slipped stitch pattern is included as well as a lot of schematics and illustrations of all techniques used.

buttons.jpg

The sleeves are worked top down and finished with a double knit cuff.

I made a second one in cool linen. It is now my favorite summer tee.

I switched the main color and contrast color when separating for sleeves and body because I had more of the dark color but I wanted the periwinkle at the top.

Sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements: 31½ / 35½ / 39½ / 43½ / 47½ / 51 “ (80 / 90 / 100 / 110 / 120 / 130 cm)
Intended to be worn with 7 to 13 cm / 3 to 5” of positive ease

What you’ll need

fingering weight / 4ply
sleeveless tee
MC (main color): ± 730, 820, 900, 1000, 1100, 1200 m (800, 900, 990, 1100, 1200, 1300 yards)
CC (contrasting color): ± 180, 200, 220, 250, 280, 300 m (200, 220, 240, 280, 310, 330 yards)
CC2: a small quantity ± 50 m (55 yards)

with elbow sleeves
add 250 to 400 m / 270 to 440 yards of MC
and 60 m / 66 yards of CC

3,25 mm (US 3) circular needle and straight needles or size to obtain gauge
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle and straight needles (optional)
4 markers
3 buttons in CC2 color + 1/1/2/2/2/3 buttons in MC

Gauge
27 sts and 41 rows stockinette with
the larger needle = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

 

Check it out here