. . . mosaiX hats . . .

It is slowly getting colder, it is almost hat time…

4 hatsB

A new pattern release this month: mosaiX hats, one hat, four different stitch patterns.

This is mosaiX hat #1,



mosaiX hat #2,



mosaiX hat #3,



and #4


MosaiX hats are worked bottom up starting with a clever tubular cast on.

They are worked in mosaic knitting: only 1 color is worked per round: the stitches in the working color are knit (or purled) and the stitches in the other color are slipped.Very easy colorwork 😉

Pretty, well thought decreases shape the crown and form some surprising line drawings on top of the hat.

You don’t need to print all the pages, just the one you want to make and the instructions you prefer: chart, or written instructions. Both are provided.

one size
to fit head circumference: 54 – 60 cm / 21¼ – 23½ “
finished measurement at the brim: 50 to 52 cm / 19¾” to 20½”
finished height: ± 19 cm / 7½”

What you’ll need
DK weight
L (light color): ± 90 m / 100 yards
D (dark color): ± 90 m / 100 yards
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle or double pointed needles
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle or double pointed needles and straight needles (optional)
4 mm (US 6) straight needle for the tubular cast on
crochet hook
3 to 6 markers
tapestry needle

The mosaic stitch pattern is variable in width and height due to the slipped stitches. It has a lot of stretch in both directions making it fit most head circumferences. Garter stitch
24 sts and 46 rows (23 ridges) = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)
with the medium needle (3.5 mm / US 4)

Read more and see more examples from the testknitters here

Next up will be the mosaiX scarf, stay tuned …_DSC4548-carre

how to … my favorite tubular cast on …

Have you – like me – tried several methods to work a tubular cast on ? And did your yarn get tangled and maybe your fingers too ? Well, mine did. Holding needle and yarn in a delicate position in one hand trying to scroll down – or back if it is a vide0a – to see the next image from the tutorial with the other hand. A ‘tour de force’ and every time the cast on is a real mess …

Or – working with waste yarn – did you cut the waste yarn but also your main yarn ? :-/ I did …

tubular cast on cover

Here is one that is – at least for me – easy and neat: my favorite tubular cast on for a 1/1 ribbing. It is a very easy-peasy, non fiddly way using waste yarn, a combination of the crochet cast on – my favorite – and the way I learned to work a tubular cast on a long time ago …

I stumbled on this method by surprise. I wanted to knit me a hat and I had just written a blog post (here) …
1 + 1 made 2

You will need some waste yarn in a contrasting color and a crochet hook in the same size as the needle. Go up a needle size for the provisional crochet cast on. It is easier to work with a larger needle and the cast on will be stretchier.

tubular 1tubular 2

tubular 3tubular 4That’s it for the provisional cast on. Next the working yarn will be introduced. The first rows are worked back and forth – even if you will be joining to knit in the round later to make a hat or a sock – because it is easier to manipulate the stitches.


tubular 5tubular 6tubular 7

tubular cast on 9That’s really it, you are all set to start your knitting. If you are making a hat, you
can join in the round now. Work the last stitch of the row together with the first
stitch of the next row (= 1 stitch decreased) and now you have the right number
of stitches.