. . . florally . . .

And this is the last pattern from 2018: florally: a beanie with stranded colorwork, knit bottom up and seamlessly in the round.

It starts with some corrugated ribbing in 2/1.

From wherever you look at it, it is never the same.

There are no repeats, in fact it is one large chart covering the whole circumference of the hat.

There is only one size due to the complexity of the colorwork, but it is easy to alter the stitch gauge to obtain other sizes. See the note about changing gauge and size below.

I made two of them in a different color range. The first on above in a very contrasting black and white, and the second one in more harmonising colors. So much harder to photograph.

The colorwork is charted only. Tips to successfully knit stranded colorwork are included.

One size
to fit head circumference: 54 – 58 cm / 21¼ – 22¾“
finished measurement at the brim: ± 51 cm / 20”
brim slightly stretched: ± 54.5 cm / 21½”
finished height: ± 21 cm / 8¼”

A note on gauge and size
• For a larger head circumference you will need larger needles and DK weight at a gauge of 25 sts and 30 rows.
The finished measurement at the brim is 54 cm / 21½” and fits a head of 57 to 61 cm / 22½” to 24”
• For a smaller head circumference you will need smaller needles and fingering weight at a gauge of 28.5 sts and 34 rows.
The finished measurement at the brim will be 48 cm / 19” and fits a head of 50 to 54 cm / 19½” to 21¼”

What you’ll need
sport / 5 ply
MC (main color): dark blue ± 100 m / 110 yards
CC contrasting color: (violet in first sample and white in second sample) ± 80 m / 90 yards
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle
4 markers
tapestry needle

Gauge
27 sts and 32 rows in stranded colorwork with the larger needle = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4”)

Check it out here

I added a few curls on the black/white beanie from this post.

and a crocheted pompom from the same post on the purple/black one.

This was 2018 … Up to 2019 in next posts …

. . . Celtic hoodie . . .

More cabling … I am getting the taste of it …

Two squares, two triangles and two tubes. Throw some cable patterns and some Celtic knots in and you get: a Celtic hoodie constructed in a special manner.

It is worked top down and is completely seamless. First the hood is worked flat in one piece. When it is long enough stitches are cast on for the body which is basically a rectangle with a cabled texture.

The top of the body is folded to the front to form the shoulders. Next, the sleeves are worked in the round. Like this …

This photo is without the hood because I started with a provisional cast on and added the hood later. But the pattern starts with the hood first.

Stitches are picked up along the hood and body to work a cabled edge that fluently flows in the Celtic knots at the fronts.

 

It has been some kind of a puzzle to draw these Celtic knots continuously without a beginning and an end …

Well, there are two ends, I must admit, so it is more Celtic bits and ends, haha.

The cables and celtic knits are charted and fully written out.
There are some special increases that are more rounded than usual: a photo tutorial for these special increases and decreases is included.

Lots of illustrations and schematics are added, everything you need is right there while you’re working. There is no need to search on the www.

Sizes
S-M / L-XL / XXL
finished measurements chest: 46½ / 52 / 56“ (120 / 132 / 144 cm)
Intended to be worn with lots of positive ease (20 to 50 cm / 8 to 20”). The sample is size S-M worn with 30 cm / 12” of positive ease.

What you’ll need
worsted weight / 10ply
Total yardage: ± 1350, 1500, 1650 m (1500, 1650, 1800 yards)

5 mm (US 8) circular needle or size to obtain gauge
4.5 mm (US 7) circular needle
cable needle
5 markers

Gauge
19 sts and 26 rows in stitch pattern with the larger needle and blocked = 10 x 10 cm (4”x 4”)

Find out more here

Bye, bye…

I think I will be using those Celtic cables again for something else … Stay tuned …

. . . cablino . . .

Next one is a hat with lots of cables: Cablino.

This one was lots of fun to sketch and watch those cables go smaller to shape the crown. It is often different from what you had in mind. But that makes it interesting.

It looks like some kind of flower, doesn’t it ?

It is worked bottom up and seamlessly in the round.

There is only one size due to the complexity of the cable design. But it is easy to alter the stitch gauge and thus obtain other sizes. Notes about changing gauge and size are included.
The cables are charted and written.
It can be worked as a beanie or blocked to a beret.

one size see below for other sizes
to fit head circumference: 54 – 58 cm / 21¼ – 22¾ “
finished measurement at the brim (slightly stretched): 52 cm / 20½”
crown circumference (blocked on a plate): 78 cm / 30¾” (diameter 25 cm / 9¾”)
Blocking aggressively will get a larger diameter.
Without blocking it is a beanie.

Top left is the unblocked beanie, the two other photos are the hat blocked to a beret.

What you’ll need
worsted / 10 ply
or you can use a fingering / 4 ply weight doubled
Yardage for the hat
± 210 m / 230 yards
(if you use fingering held double, you should double the yardage)
4 mm (US 6) circular needle
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle
cable needle
marker
tapestry needle

Gauge
23.5 sts and 32 rows of repeats of rows 1 to 24 of the cable stitch pattern, with the larger needle and blocked = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4”)

a note on gauge and size
For a larger head circumference you will need a larger needle and aran weight at a gauge of 22 sts and 30 rows.
The finished measurement at the brim is 55 cm / 21½” and fits a head of 57 to 61 cm / 22½” to 24”

For a smaller head circumference you will need a smaller needle and DK weight at a gauge of 25.5 sts and 35 rows.
The finished measurement at the brim will be 48 cm / 19” and fits a head of 50 to 54 cm / 19½” to 21¼”

Check it out here

. . . et entretemps . . .

A lot of swatches … small ones, large ones …

Textures, colors, constructions …

An idea popped up …

What if ? … A well known knitting technique combined with some kind of texture … lightbulb moment …

This is not very common. I did a search on Ravelry and nothing much came up. Got something to play with …

A kind of waves, don’t you think ?

Or sailing boats ?

I like the neutral colors with these textures.

Entretemps is a collection of a hat, scarf and a large, reversible, L- or V-shaped shawl, worked in entrelac with textured squares.

The entretemps shawl or wrap is made out of squares that have the same easily memorized stitch pattern. The use of increases, decreases and the joins of the squares give the shawl a dynamic third dimension with playful, organic shapes and interesting textures.

The stitch pattern is charted and written.

Size
at the given gauge, wing length (in the center of the wing from the center to the tip) = ± 105 cm / 41½”
width per wing: ± 45 cm / 17¾”

What you’ll need
worsted / 10 ply
Yardage will depend on size of the shawl.
As pictured:
± 1200 m / 1320 yards
5 mm (US 8) needles
two 5 mm (US 8) double pointed needles to work the final I-cord
tapestry needle
4 markers if you wish to place them between the squares (optional)

Gauge
worsted / 10 ply
The gauge is not crucial but will affect the size of your shawl.
gauge of the sample (unblocked)
18 sts and 16 ridges (or 32 rows) in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

More info here

_____________________________________________________________________________________________

What is this ? A cauliflower, a seed pod, definitely something organic, a fungus ?

Ooh, it’s just a hat …

Entretemps hat is worked with the same squares as the shawl, only a bit smaller.

Just as the shawl, the use of increases, decreases and the joins of the squares give the hat that dynamic third dimension and swirly shape.

The stitch pattern is both charted and written.

What you’ll need
sport weight / 5 ply
± 230 to 300 m / 250 to 330 yards

3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle
crochet hook for the cast on
tapestry needle
1 distinctive marker to mark the end of rounds (BOR) and 7 markers to place between repeats if you wish to do so

One size for other sizes see ‘a note on gauge and size’ below
to fit head circumference: 54 – 58 cm / 21¼ – 22¾ “
finished measurement at the brim (slightly stretched): 50 cm / 19½”

Gauge
unblocked garter stitch
22.5 sts and 21 ridges (or 42 rows)
= 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

A note on gauge and size
For a larger head circumference you will need a larger needle and DK weight at a gauge of 21 sts and 19 ridges (38 rows).
The finished measurement at the brim is 54 cm / 21¼” and fits a head of 57 to 63 cm / 22½” to 24¾”

For a smaller head circumference you will need a smaller needle and fingering weight at a gauge of 24 sts and 22 ridges (44 rows).
The finished measurement at the brim will be 47 cm / 18½” and fits a head of 50 to 54 cm / 19½” to 21¼”

More info here

_____________________________________________________________________________________________

What if ? … Always the most interesting question, don’t you think ? ^^

The same construction but different elements …

Entretemps scarf is made out of squares with a seed stitch motif on a purled background. The design looks very intricate, but it is easy peasy.

The stitch pattern is charted and written.

Size
at the given gauge, width: ± 29 cm / 11½”
length of the sample: ± 240 cm / 94½”
Can easily be altered by working more or less repeats.

What you’ll need
DK / 8 ply
Yardage will depend on length of the shawl
As pictured:
± 850 m / 930 yards
4.5 mm (US 7) needles
two 4.5 mm (US 7) double pointed needles to work the final I-cord
tapestry needle
4 markers if you wish to place them between the squares (optional)

Gauge
is not crucial but will affect the size of your shawl
gauge of the sample (unblocked)
20 sts and 30 rows in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

More info here

_____________________________________________________________________________________________

All three patterns are tech edited bue Sue-Cat

and they are bundled in one pdf: entretemps

_____________________________________________________________________________________________

And what if (bis) ?

The stitch pattern from the scarf with the hat pattern ?

I sure have got something to play with now …

To be continued …

. . . from braided leaves (bis) . . .

Ahah, and there is a matching hat: braided leaves hat.

It features the same stranded colorwork with delicate outlined leaves, perfect to work up some little rests.

Worked bottom up, it starts with Jenny’s magic cast on as a provisional cast on. A doubled brim with – at the bottom – a small chart of ‘tilted’ lines refers to the pullovers ‘twisted / tilted details’.

It comes in three sizes: kids, medium and large. Instructions for a beanie or a more slouchy hat are included.
The samples are medium size: slouchy fit and beanie.

slouchy fit

beanie

The colorwork is charted only.

Tips on colorwork and fair isle to successfully knit the leaves are included.

Find out more here.

Get both patterns: braided leaves and braided leaves hat together.

. . . from braided leaves . . .

I am a bit (a lot) behind presenting my latest patterns. This post will cover the patterns from the last months of 2018.

Let’s start with ‘braided leaves’. I adored knitting and designing this pattern.

Looking at all the photos I took to illustrate this design, I think it’s better to make one blog post per pattern after all.

Braided leaves is a pullover with stranded colorwork and eyelets at the yoke. Some nice, colored or ‘twisted’ details make this a uniquely designed pullover.

tilting eyelets at the yoke

It is worked top down and seamlessly in the round. It starts with a twisted neck band followed by a few short rows to shape the back neck. The circular yoke is build up using eyelets on top of each other giving the yoke a dynamic twist.

A few more increases are added while knitting the colorwork of the braided leaves. The same idea of twist is used for the pocket bands, the cuffs and ribbing at the bottom.

twisted pocket band

A simpler version of the leaves is added to the sleeve cuffs and the inside of the small pockets is worked in stranded knitting.

stranded pockets and ’tilting’ hem

The colorwork is charted only, (no written instructions).
Tips on how to successfully knit stranded colorwork are included.

This pattern has been tech edited by Sue-Cat and test knit.

Sizes
XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
finished measurements (chest): 31½, 35½, 39½, 43½, 47½, 51” (80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 130 cm)
Intended to be worn with some positive ease.

What you’ll need
fingering weight / 4 ply
MC: ± 1000/1100/1200/1350/1450/1600 m (1100/1200/1310/14750/1600/1750 yards)
CC: ± 140/155/170/190/210/230 m (155/170/185/210/230/255 yards)

two 3 mm (US 2½) circular needles
3 mm (US 2½) double pointed needle
3 mm (US 2½) straight needles for the pocket bands
3.25 mm (US 3) circular needle for the stranded colorwork, if necessary
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle for the ribbing

4 markers
or 10/11/12/12/13/13 markers if you wish to place markers between repeats

Gauge
27 sts and 38 rows stockinette stitch with the 3 mm (US 2½) needle = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

Check it out here.