. . . summer blues . . .

Omphalodes verna aka ‘creeping navelwort’, ‘petite bourrache printanière’, ‘Frühlings-Gedenkemein’ or ‘vroeg vergeet-me-nietje’: a little plant flowering early in spring.

But that is not why I write this blogpost 😀

There is a new pattern freshly published to ravelry. It’s called ‘Summer blues

It is lightweight, it is a vest, it is a pullover … if you add the sleeves …

It has an allover design of little flowers in stranded colorwork. It is not the easiest knit because it starts at the top knitting the colorwork back and forth meaning one needs to read the charts from right to left for the Right Side rows and from left to right for Wrong Side rows.

I could have written the pattern to work in the round with ‘steeks’, but in fact I don’t like steeks. Mostly because I don’t like the idea of not being able to rip the whole thing back and re-use the yarn for something else.

So, first the back is worked top down and back and forth.
Stitches are picked up & knit for both fronts which is also worked top down with a V-neck.
When reaching the same length as the back the body is worked further down in the round.

Lastly stitches are picked up for the sleeve bands in 1/1 ribbing.

If desired, stitches can be picked up & knit to add the (layered) 3/4 sleeves.

The pattern is written but the colorwork is charted only. Please read through the pattern before you print it. You won’t need all the pages, only the ones referring to your size.

The pattern has been tech edited by Sue-Cat

Go check out the testknits on ravelry: they are gorgeous. If you use a gradient for the flowers, it is just magic.

Sizes:
S, M/L, XL, XXL
finished measurements chest: 40, 46½, 53½, 60 “ (102, 119, 136, 152.5 cm)
Intended to be worn with 15 to 30 cm / 6 to 12” of positive ease

What you’ll need
light fingering weight / 3ply
sleeveless tee
MC: ± 650, 750, 900, 1000 m
(710, 820, 1000, 1100 yards)
CC: ± 420, 500, 600, 700 m
(460, 550, 660, 770 yards)
with 3/4 sleeves
add 120 to 170 m / 130 to 190 yards of MC
and 100 to 150 m / 110 to 165 yards of CC
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle and straight needles (optional) or size to obtain gauge
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle for the cuff in 1/1 ribbing at the sleeves
12 to 18 markers
2 removable markers
tapestry needle

Gauge
33 sts and 35 rounds or rows in stranded colorwork = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)
29 sts in 1/1 ribbing = 10 cm (4”)
28 sts in stockinette stitch = 10 cm (4”)

Check it out here

. . . Diamonds & stripes . . .

I have a new pattern out …
It has taken its time even though it is a quite simple looking design. But then the simpliest things are sometimes the most time demanding.

Diamonds & stripes is a simple slightly oversized (or more fitted depending on your yarn choice) pullover with a basic raglan sleeve inset. It is worked top down and seamlessly in the round.

It features a lattice / diamond pattern on the body, twisted rib patterns on the sleeves and in the middle of front and back and a split hem that is longer at the back.

When I am past the separation sleeves/body, I often work the sleeves (and neckband) first to check if I will have enough yarn and how lang I will (or can) be making the body.

I used an alpaca DK weight, this is still unblocked

And here after a good soak (blocked)


A note on yarn choice: if you want a relaxed, oversized look (as the model), choose a yarn with some drape (wool/silk blends or alpaca, but if you prefer a more fitted look, choose a bouncy wool with some elasticity.

Sizes
XS-S, M-L, XL-XXL, XXXL
finished measurements chest: 39¾, 44, 52, 59¾ “ (101, 112, 132, 152 cm)
Intended to be worn with positive ease (10 to 25 cm / 4 to 10”).
Model is wearing M-L with 20 cm / 8” ease.

What you’ll need
DK weight
yardage: ± 1000/1200/1350/1500 m (1100/1320/1480/1650 yards)
4 mm (US 6) circular needle
3.5 mm (US 4) circular needle
3 mm (US 2½) circular needle
cable needle
9 markers
tapestry needle

Gauge
lattice pattern blocked: 21 sts and 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)
twisted rib pattern slightly stretched: 20.5 sts and 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

Check it out here and see other examples with different yarns and colors

. . . leaves, leaves and flowers . . .

There are 8 new patterns published with botanical details: flowers and leaves.

First comes Spring memories

Find the mitt if you can

Spring memories is a set containing a hat and fingerless mitts with stranded colorwork in three colors featuring delicate white dandelions with yellow hearts. The yellow hearts are added afterwards using duplicate stitch. It is perfect to work up some little leftovers.
You could also try to work the yellow hearts in ‘intarsia’ as @Maddish on Ravelry did because they are only a few stitches wide. See post 40 in the test thread.

The Spring memory mitts are worked bottom up from cuff to fingers. They can be worn with the band up for warm fingers or folded down when you need your fingers to work.
They come in three sizes: small, medium and large. The sample is the medium size.

Sizes
Finished measurement hand circumference: S, M, L: 17.5 cm / 6¾”, 20 cm / 8”, 22.5 cm / 8¾”
to fit hand circumference: 18 to 19 cm, 20 to 22 cm, 22 to 25 cm (7 to 7½“, 7¾ to 8¾“, 8¾ to 10“)

And then there is also a hat: Spring memory hat

Find out more and see more examples in other colors here and here

I also made some mini-mitts for my 18 months little niece. One daisy on a little mitt.
They arrived at destination and … I was afraid they woudln’t fit, the mitts looked so very tiny but they DO fit 😀

Next is Climbing leaves,

a set containing a hat, fingerless mitts and a cowl (3 patterns) with stranded colorwork in two colors featuring delicate leaves.

The Climbing leaves hat is worked bottom up with a large folded brim.

It comes in three sizes: small, medium and large. The sample is the medium size.

Sizes
Finished measurement hat circumference at the brim (slightly stretched): 49 cm / 19¼”, 52 cm / 20½”, 56 cm / 22”
to fit head circumference: 52 to 56 cm / 20½ to 22“, 55 to 59 cm / 21½ to 23¼“, 57 to 63 cm / 22½ to 24¾“

The Climbing leaves mitts are extra long. Instructions are included to make a shorter version. They are worked bottom up from cuff to fingers. They can be worn with the band up for warm fingers or folded down when you need your fingers to work.
They come in three sizes: small, medium and large. The sample is the medium size.

Sizes
Finished measurement hand circumference: S, M, L (17.5 cm / 6¾”, 20 cm / 8”, 22.5 cm / 8¾”)
to fit hand circumference: 18 to 19 cm, 20 to 22 cm, 22 to 25 cm (7 to 7½ “, 7¾ to 8¾ “, 8¾ to 10 “)

And an extra warm cowl: the Climbing leaves cowl

It is double layered for extra warmth, worked bottom up starting with a provisional cast on that will be unraveled to graft both layers together. It comes in two sizes: small and large. The sample is the small size with a diameter of 61 cm / 24”. The large size is a long loop double the length (122 cm / 48”). It can be worn as is or you can double it around your neck for extra coziness and warmth.

Sizes
Finished measurement circumference: Small: 61 cm /24”, Large: 122 cm / 48”

More examples in other colors and more info here, here and here.

Finally the last 3 patterns: Oak leaves which I am particularly proud of.

Oak leaves is a set similar to the Climbing leaves set containing a hat, a cowl and fingerless mitts in stranded colorwork (three colors) featuring delicate oak leaves and acorns. The acorns are added afterwards using duplicate stitch.

The Oak leaves hat is worked bottom up with a large folded brim as the others. It also comes in three sizes: small, medium and large. The sample is the medium size.
Tips on colorwork and duplicating stitches included.

The Oak leaves mitts that can be worn with the band up for warm fingers or folded down when you need your fingers to work.

Also in three sizes: small, medium and large. The sample is the medium size.

And finally the cowl: Oak leaves cowl double layered for extra warmth.

The complete set

More info here, here and here.

. . . last minute gifts . . .

I finally made it 😀

This cute little pattern was in my to-do-list for yeeaars… Never found the time to make it…

Well, it’s not that one needs a lot of time. A couple of hours, some scrap yarn and two beads for the eyes is all it takes.

You could just embroider the eyes if you don’t have suitable beads around.

Here you can find the pattern for these cuties: flat rat pattern

I made a whole bunch of them 😀

For the eyes I used black beads (4 mm diameter)

One ‘rat’ measures about 10 cm / 4″ without the tail.

I gently soaked the bodies (not the heads) in water and pinned them out to dry flat.

Once dry I stapled books on them to flatten their bodies more.

The ‘flat rats’ in action…

Bookmarks … Funny. Isn’t it ?

So, if you are in need of some inspiration for last minute gifts …

Find the pattern here

. . . X-tee . . .

It all started with this very easy stitch pattern when I made a few little swatches to try out new patterns. I must admit that I rarely use stitch patterns from a book, I usually make them up myself…

Find out more and see more examples of X-tee here

With a yarn that has some sheen it gives the right but subtle contrast to show off the slipped stitch pattern. I used a cotton/bambou blend.

X-tee is a short sleeved tee or a pullover with drop shoulders and 3/4 sleeves. Both options are included.

I like to wear it over a shirt like this.

It features a subtle and very easy stitch pattern, a V-neck that follows the diagonal lines, and split hems. It is best to choose a yarn that has some sheen to enhance the effect of the diagonal lines.


First the back is worked top down and back and forth to the armpits. Then stitches are picked up to work the fronts to the armpits. From here the body is worked in the round in one piece. Stitches are picked up to work the 1/1 ribbing or to work longer sleeves using the same slipped stitch pattern.
Finally an applied I-cord can be added to finish the neckline – if desired.

Sizes
XS / S / M / L / XL / XXL / XXXL
finished measurements chest: 31¾ / 35¼ / 40¼ / 43¼ / 46½ / 50½ / 53½ “ (80.5 / 89.5 / 102 / 110 / 118 / 128.5 / 136 cm)

Intended to be worn with 7 to 13 cm / 3 to 5” of positive ease.

What you’ll need
fingering weight / 4ply
short sleeved tee
± 730, 820, 950, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1300 m (800, 900, 990, 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400 yards)
with elbow sleeves
add 200 to 350 m / 220 to 380 yards

3 mm (US 2½) circular needle and straight needles (optional) or size to obtain gauge
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle
3 mm (US 2½) double pointed needle for the I-cord finishing at the neck (optional)
6 markers
scrap yarn or stitch holders

Gauge
10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”) = 28 sts and 56 rows in slip stitch pattern with the 3 mm / US 2½ needle

Find out more and see more examples of X-tee here

. . . Florally – the pullover . . .

More info and examples here

When I was drawing the chart for this hat, I knew I would do more with it.

The original chart was much larger than what the part I used to make the hat…

I just didn’t know yet what I would make of the whole chart…

Until I dug up two beautful dark colored skeins of Dye For Yarn… and a blueish-greyish-natural skein from Snail Yarns.

They work so well together, the dark bordeaux looks almost velvet against the naturals.

Florally is a loose pullover with a V-neck, drop shoulders, 3/4 sleeves and a unique colorwork pattern at the bottom. Starting with a provisional cast on, the back is first worked bottom up and back and forth.

Stitches are bound off for the back neck, a subtle patterned saddle shoulder is worked followed by the fronts that are knitted top down to the armpits.

The saddle shoulder is quite subtle with a leaf motif in purl stitches and a third color – if desired.

Here is a little trick when joining both fronts of the V-neck worked top down. When you have knit both fronts to the right length and you join them, it often looks sloppy with a few elongated stitches at that join. To reinforce the join there is a simple trick: twist the last stitch of the right front and the first stitch of the left front you are joining to…


So, knit to the last stitch (or two stitches) of right front – in the photo above you can see that I twisted 4 stitches (2 at each front) -, place those stitch(es) on a cable needle and hold in front, then knit 1 or 2 stitches at the beginning of the left front, knit the stitches from the cable needle and continue the row (of course you don’t need a cable needle to twist those stitches, you can do it without, I only used it to explain the principle).

Another – even easier – method is to k2tog those 2 stitches, but you will end up having 1 stitch less.

From this point the body is worked further down in the round.
Stitches are picked up for the sleeves which are worked top down and in the round with a smaller motif at the cuffs.

Finally an applied I-cord finishes the neckline.

Sizes
XS / S / M / L / XL / XXL / XXXL
finished measurements chest: 31½, 34½, 39, 43, 47, 50½, 54“ (80, 88, 100, 109, 119, 129, 138 cm)
Intended to be worn with 7 to 13 cm / 3 to 5” of positive ease

What you’ll need
fingering weight / 4ply
sleeveless tee
MC1: ± 730, 820, 950, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1300 m (800, 900, 990, 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400 yards)
CC: ± 180, 200, 220, 250, 280, 300, 340 m (200, 220, 240, 280, 310, 330, 370 yards)
MC2 (optional) a small quantity ± 50 m (55 yards)
with elbow sleeves
add 200 to 350 m / 220 to 380 yards of MC1
and 60 m / 66 yards of CC

3 mm (US 2½) circular needle and straight needles (optional) or size to obtain gauge
3.25 mm (US 3) circular needle
2.75 mm (US 2) circular needle
3 mm (US 2½) double pointed needle
cable needle
4 markers
scrap yarn or stitch holders

Gauge
10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”) = 27.5 sts and 40 rows stockinette with the 3 mm / US 2½ needle
or 27.5 sts and 38 rows in stranded colorwork with the 3.25 mm / US 3 needle.

More info and examples here

. . . pull – o – mousse . . .

Fancy some bubbles ?

A while ago I made these socks: sock-o-mousse and I also made a pattern for it. They look fun, don’t they ?

I really like those random bubbles. There is more to do with them, me thinks.

I searched my stash and found several lonely skeins in tints of blue and some white yarn too. Perfect… Ready to start pull-ô-mousse.

It starts with a small double neckband. Then, a few short rows are worked to shape the back neck. It became a cropped pullover worked top down and seamlessly in the round.


The circular yoke features a fun colorwork with randomly placed bubbles. Well it looks random, but it is not really random. Hard to tell, but the yoke is made of repeats of the same bubble chart.

It looks a little different from traditional circuar yokes, doesn’t it ?

The colorwork is charted only. Don’t worry if you make mistakes in this part, nobody will see it 😀
Tips on how to successfully knit stranded colorwork are included.

The white bubbles on the body and sleeves and the blue bubbles on top of the yoke are added using duplicate stitch.

If you like to use up some stashed yarn and work gradients (fades) as in the sample, instructions how to work slow or quick gradients are included.

About the pattern: pull-o-mousse

Available for sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL, XXXL
finished measurements (chest): 30 / 34 / 38 / 42½ / 46½ / 50 / 54” (77 / 87 / 97 / 108 / 118 / 128 / 137 cm)
Intended to be worn with some positive ease.

What you’ll need
fingering weight / 4 ply
Color A (white in the sample):
± 240/270/300/330/360/390/420 m (260/300/330/360/390/420/460 yards)
Color B (blue in the sample):
± 900/1000/1100/1230/1340/1450/1560 m (1000/1100/1220/1350/1470/1600/1700 yards)

3 mm (US 2½) circular needle
3.25 mm (US 3) circular needle for the stranded colorwork, if necessary.
2.75 mm (US 2) circular needle for the hem and cuffs
two or three 2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needles
crochet hook
4 markers
or 8/8/8/8/10/10/10 markers if you wish to place markers between repeats

Gauge
27 sts and 39 rounds stockinette stitch
with the 3 mm (US 2½) needle
27 sts and 39 rounds stranded knitting
with the larger needle
= 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

Check it out here

. . . three easy pieces, #3 . . .

This is #3 of the three easy pieces, a simple pullover with a basic raglan sleeve inset knit at a loose gauge. Check it out here and here

For this one I used a fingering weight and a mohair lace weight together.

It starts in the same manner as both other patterns with a welted cast on. The turtle neck is added afterwards…

I also added a large 2/2 ribbing at the hem and knitted ‘balloon’ sleeves instead of the tapered sleeves…

It is worked top down and seamlessly in the round as are the tow other patterns from this bundle.
At any time you can switch between the three patterns. They all start in the same way and have the same stitch counts. Check #1 for a short sleeved or 3/4 tapered sleeved version in gradients or with some colorwork and A-line body. Go to #2 if you want to embellish your sweater with some steeked fents and sewn in petals (there is also a version if you don’t like to cut in your knitting).

The neck edge, hem and cuffs are started or finished with a welted cast one / bind off.

In this version a turtle neck, cuffs and hems in 2/2 ribbing are added. Choice between long tapered sleeves or balloon sleeves.

Sizes:
XS / S / M / L / XL / XXL / XXXL
finished measurements chest: 32 / 35 / 39 / 43 / 47 / 50 / 54 “ (81 / 88 / 99 / 109 / 119 / 128 / 137 cm)

What you’ll need
worsted weight, two fingering weights held together or a sport weight paired with a lace weight or mohair
total yardage for a long sleeved pullover with a turtle neck as pictured
± 820/900/1000/1100/1200/1320/1420 m (900/1000/1100/1200/1320/1420/1450 yards)
if you use yarn held double, you need to double the amount

5 mm (US 8) circular needle or size to obtain gauge
4 mm (US 6) circular needle
4.5 mm (US 7) circular needle
4 markers
tapestry needle

Gauge
stockinette stitch blocked with the largest needle: 16.5 sts and 25 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

Check it out here and here

So which one will it be ?

. . . three easy pieces, #2 . . .

Actually #2 came first…

I had this (very old) pullover that is one of my favorite mid-season wears. ‘Old’ because I knit this back in 2005!! and I still wear it.

Don’t remember which yarn I used for it. It is probably a mix of wool and acrylic ??? I knitted it in plain stockinette stitch and top down to use every meter of it.
I thought it looked a bit dull and too grey, although it is a beautiful grey with some blue in it…

So I ‘STEEKED’ and sewed separately knitted petals in the fents. In 2005 I didn’t know the word ‘steek’, didn’t even know it was a known technique… I just cut the fents in my pullover and with my sewing machine added a zigzag along the edges…

I wrote a pattern for it only just now. With ‘steeks’ (cutting) or without… Instructions are included to knit the fents without the cutting… because that might look scary…

This is my new version holding two yarns together: BC Garn semilla, sport weight in a lovely ‘vieux rose’ and Mirasol Yarn Sulka Legato, colorway pearl, a light fingering weight.

#2 of Three easy pieces is a simple pullover with a raglan sleeve inset knit at a loose gauge as the two others. Top down, seamlessly in the round and featuring eye catching ‘petals’.
The two methods are included:

  • if you are adventurous and like to change the position of the petals, they can be made by steeks and cutting
  • or you can knit the fents without having to cut the fabric.

The ‘petals’ are knit separately in the round and sewn in place giving the effect that they are behind the fents.


If you use the steek method, you should use a sticky woolen yarn, don’t use superwash wool or cotton yarns. Instead of using worsted weight yarn you can use a sport weight or light DK weight yarn paired with mohair.

The hem and cuffs are finished with a welted bind off giving it a minimal finished look that prevents stockinette stitch from rolling.

There are two other versions of this pattern, but they look completely different. I wrote them up in two more patterns. They are bundled in one e-book called: three easy pieces, three patterns to mix and match. More about #1 here and #3 in next post.
At any time you can switch between the three patterns. They all start in the same way and have the same stitch counts. Check #1 for a short sleeved or 3/4 tapered sleeved version in gradients or with some colorwork and A-line body. Go to #3, if you want to add a turtle neck and balloon sleeves.

Sizes:
XS / S / M / L / XL / XXL / XXXL
finished measurements chest: 32 / 35 / 39 / 43 / 47 / 50 / 54 “ (81 / 88 / 99 / 109 / 119 / 128 / 137 cm)

What you’ll need
worsted weight, two fingering weights held together or a sport weight paired with a lace weight or mohair
If you use the steek method, you should use a sticky woolen yarn, don’t use superwash or cotton yarns

main color: ± 750/820/900/1000/1100/1200/1300 m (820/900/1000/1100/1200/1320/1420 yards)
if you use yarn held double, you need to double the amount

small rest of worsted or DK weight in different colors for the ‘petals’

5 mm (US 8) circular needle or size to obtain gauge
6 markers
tapestry needle
sewing machine (for the steek method)

Gauge
stockinette stitch blocked: 16.5 sts and 25 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

Find out more about it here

. . . three easy pieces, #1 . . .

Sometimes I need an easy knit for watching tv or reading…

That is how this started: a quick knit on large needles (5 mm / US 8 needle) with an easy raglan shaping using only yarns from my stash.

I held several yarns together: a lace weight from Bart en Francis held double and a Lace yarn from Wollmeise. It is knit at a loose gauge, so it grew quite fast.

I wonder if I should add sleeves or not ? I always find short sleeves or sleevecaps very cute, but I don’t wear that very often.

First let’s finish the body and decide later.
I got kinda bored, of course and added a few subtle flowers in stranded knitting at the bottom.

The bind off (and the cast on) method is a welted bind off / cast on that prevents stockinette stitch from rolling too much. It gives it a no-nonsense, minimal finished look.

Hmm, cute, but I think I will add sleeves, I still have some yarn left from the B&F lace and Wollmeise.

#1 of Three easy pieces is a simple tee or pullover with a basic raglan sleeve inset knit at a loose gauge. It is worked top down and seamlessly in the round.

It is an ideal project to work up some stashed yarn. Use a worsted weight… or hold two fingering weights together, pair a sport weight with a lace weight… whatever you find in your stash and looks good together.

Knit a cropped tee with sleeve caps, a longer tee with 3/4 sleeves or a pullover with long sleeves. Add some stripes, a gradient (fade) or some stranded knitting. Instructions for slow and quick gradients and a chart of flowers are included.

The neck edge, hem and cuffs are finished with a welted cast on or bind off giving it a minimal finished look that prevents stockinette stitch from rolling.

I made two other versions of this pattern, but they look completely different. I wrote them up in two more patterns. They will be ‘mix and match’ patterns bundled in one e-book called: three easy pieces. More about them in next posts.
At any time you could switch between the three patterns. They all start in the same way and have the same stitch counts. Check #2 if you want to embellish your sweater with some steeked fents and sewn-in petals (there is also a version if you don’t like to cut in your knitting). Go to #3 if you want to add a turtle neck and balloon sleeves.

Sizes:
XS / S / M / L / XL / XXL / XXXL
finished measurements chest: 32 / 35 / 39 / 43 / 47 / 50 / 54 “ (81 / 88 / 99 / 109 / 119 / 128 / 137 cm)

What you’ll need
worsted weight, two fingering weights held together or a sport weight paired with a lace weight or mohair

total yardage for a 3/4 sleeved cropped pullover as pictured
± 750/820/900/1000/1100/1200/1300 m (820/900/1000/1100/1200/1320/1420 yards)
if you use yarn held double, you need to double the amount

5 mm (US 8) circular needle or size to obtain gauge
6 markers
tapestry needle

Gauge
stockinette stitch blocked: 16.5 sts and 25 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

Check it out here or the bundle here