how to … work an ESTONIAN BRAID aka VIKKEL BRAID …

Adding a braid between body and ribbing or any other kind of edging gives your knitting a very neat and professional look. And it is not that difficult.

estonian mod 7

I used it in my ‘Atropa‘ in a different color than the edging

If you use a contrasting color for the braid – like I did – knit 1 round (supposing you are working in the round, what you most likely will be doing) with that color first before starting the braid.


step 1   step 2   step 3
m1L (make 1 left), slip the   Knit the 2nd stitch on the      knit the first stitch through
just made stitch to the         left needle through back       front loop and drop both
left needle                             loop, (don’t drop any             stitches off the left needle.
…                                            stitch yet, leave the stitches
…                                            on the left needle),                                                                          


step 1B   step 2B  step 3B
Slip last stitch on the           Knit the 2nd stitch on the     knit the first stitch through
right needle to the               left needle through back       front loop and drop both
left needle.                           loop, (don’t drop any             stitches off the left needle.
…                                           stitch yet, leave the stitches
…                                           on the left needle),                                                                            

Repeat these 3 steps until all stitches have been worked. Pass the last stitch of the braid over the 1st stitch of the next round.
Now you have the same number of stitches as before you started the braid and you can start the ribbing or any other finishing at your liking.


. . . atropa . . .

In the same spirit as ’embossed alu’ (see previous post) but more oversized: Atropa

mod 4 kopie

I  used Wollmeise Pure this time. That Tollkirsche is amazing. It changes color during he day. In morning light, shade, evening light, electric light. It really glows. Wow, love it. I combined it with ‘All inclusive’ for the stripes and a rest of the 13 Al from ’embossed alu’ with some ‘Natur’.

A new favorite pullover for any occasion. It is casual and chique at the same time. I am so happy with it.

Atropa: an oversized boxi-type pullover with fitted lace sleeves. A little bit of stripes, a little bit of lace. Worked top down seamlessly in one piece. Two finishes are proposed for bottom hem, neck and cuff: I-cord or a small folded hem.

Included in the pattern are:
a lot of illustrated tips on

  • increases used,
  • short rows,
  • schematics for every section

And in a separate pdf
– richly illustrated photo tutorial on working an estonian braid (I will write a separate blog post on how to make one) and a small folded hem with knit or sewn bind off.

mod 9

Sizes: XS/S, M/L, XL/XXL
finished measurements chest: 105, 125, 145 cm (54, 59, 64.5”)

Intended to be worn with lots of positive ease (20 to 40 cm / 8 to 16”)

What you’ll need
in fingering weight, 3 or 4 ply
MC (main color)
± 1050/1200/1400 m (1150/1320/1550 yards)
CC (contrasting color)
± 130/150/180 m (145/165/210 yards)

CC2 and CC3 (contrasting color2 and 3 for the neck, hem and cuff finishing) : small leftovers in fingering weight (50m/55 yards)

3.25 mm (US 3) circular ndl or dpns or size to obtain gauge
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle or dpns for the edgings
6 markers
tapestry needle

28 sts and 41 rows stockinette
= 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here

. . . embossed alu . . .

I am so terribly behind … Never showed my latest ! patterns.oo sleeves mod 5-

Embossed alu is a pullover with a large boatneck and some positive ease but with fitted sleeves. It has a lace mesh pattern on the sleeves and peplum. That mesh pattern is a happy mistake. I found a pattern in an old knitting book. It had no picture and I was trying to work it in the round. I definitely can’t make the difference between wrong from right side or knit and purl, haha … This ‘wrong’ mesh stitch reminds me of the embossed plates used in scale models. Combined with the name of the yarn I used : Wollmeise Twin, colorway 13 Al gave me the name: embossed alu.

oo sleeves detail

It is worked top down and seamlessly in the round. The neck and sleeves are finished with a special edging… a very small folded hem, but there is no sewing involved.

cuff 3A photo tutorial is included to work the edging.

XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL: finished measurements: 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52 “ (82, 92, 102, 112, 122, 132 cm)

Intended to be worn with 7 to 13 cm / 3 to 5” of positive ease

What you’ll need
MC: ± 900, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400 m (990, 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400, 1500 yards)
CC a few left overs ± 100 to 170 m (110 to 180 yards)

3,5 mm (US 4) circular needle or size to obtain gauge
3 mm (US 3) circular needle
4 markers

25 sts and 37 rows stockinette with the larger needle = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Find more examples here

. . . zebraaaa . . .

Published a while ago: Zebra tee …

swirl tee +

IT is a striped (!) – I do love stripes – pullover worked top down and seamlessly in the round. It starts in quite a special way by working the neckline at the back and front at the same time.

Doesn’t it looks like Zebra ?

Stitches are picked up to start the sleevecap. Sleeves, back and front are worked using a variation of the contiguous sleeve inset developed by Susie Myers.
After separating body and sleeves, the body is worked top down with extra ‘wedges’ at the sides. The sleeves are also worked top down and in the round.

swirl tee 5 +

XXS/XS, S, M, M2, L, XL
finished measurements (chest): 27.5 / 31 / 34.5 / 38 / 41 / 45 ” (70 / 78 / 88 / 96 / 104 / 114 cm)
Intended to be worn with some negative ease or no ease. Choose the size closest to your high bust measurement (under the armpits)

What you’ll need
total yardage: ± 950, 1050, 1150, 1260, 1360, 1500m (1050, 1150, 1260, 1380, 1500, 1650 yards) of fingering weight / 4 ply
• the black / off white sample: 3/5 of MC (black) and 2/5 CC (off white)
• grey-brown-blue sample: uses 50% of MC and 50% of CC

3,5 mm (US 4) circular needle or size to obtain gauge
3 mm (US 2 1/2) circular needle
crochet hook for the provisional cast-on

2 different kinds of markers
– 8 markers to mark the stitch patterns
– 4 markers for the sleevecap shaping

23,5 sts and 38 rows stockinette stitch with the larger needle = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here


This is a very nice and neat way – and an easy one too – to cast on a number of stitches at the end of a row. You will need a crochet hook of about the same size as the needle you are using.

Work the row to end. Place the needle in your left hand so that the other side is facing you. If you worked a right side row, the wrong side should be facing and if you worked a wrong side row the right side should be facing.


1  2
Insert the crochet hook           Catch the yarn and pull a loop
in the last stitch on the             (= 1 stitch on the crochet hook)
left needle.


1b  2b 3b
Bring the yarn under and        Bring the crochet hook in      Pull a loop through the loop 
behind the needle.                    front of the needle and         on the crochet hook.
                                                pick up the yarn.                    (= 1 stitch more on the
…                                                                                                  needle  and 1 stitch on
…                                                                                                  the crochet hook)                                  

Repeat these 3 steps until you have cast on the desired number of stitches minus 1.

4 5
…                                               Place the stitch from the
…                                               crochet hook on the needle.

Tata, finished. Turn your work and start the row.

Now, this is for working back and forth.


In the round.

If – for example – you are working a pullover top down and you need to add stitches at the neckline to close it and start working in the round: cast on the right number of stitches, knit the first stitch from the stitches you need to join to and pass the 2nd stitch on the right needle over the knitted stitch and off the needle.

Voilà you can start working in the round.

. . . Xol . . .

Xol means ‘heart’ in wolof: the language spoken in Senegal and part of West-Africa. It is pronounced as khol, (as the X in Greek) not as ksolxol met pompom

Xol is a color block beanie with a large intarsia motif: charts for a large heart or a flower are included and if you want something else, a blank chart is added to make your own motif.

It is worked bottom up and seamlessly in the round, the length can easily be adjusted to make a beanie or a more slouchy hat. A large pompom finishes the hat. (Instructions for making a pompom in the pattern) BTW here is a link to some very funny pompoms

Intarsia in the round is not as difficult as it sounds. A richly illustrated tutorial is included in a separate pdf.

available for size KIDS, Adult S, M and L
head circumference: 48-53 / 51-56 / 54-59 / 57-63 cm (19-21” / 20-22” / 22-23.25” / 23.25-25”)

finished measurements (brim): 43 / 46 / 49.5 / 53 cm (17” / 18” / 19.5” / 21”)

finished measurements (body): 46 / 49 cm / 52.5 / 56 cm (18” / 19.5” / 20.5” / 22”)

Finished height (without the pompom) = 20/21/26/27 cm (9/9.5/10.5/10.75”) but can easily be adjusted

What you’ll need
fingering / 4 ply
Yardage for the hat without the pompom
MC1 (main color1: bottom): ± 80 m / 90 yards
MC2 (main color2: top): ± 70 m / 77 yards
CC (contrasting color): ± 30 m / 33 yards

3.25 mm (US 3) circular needle
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle
cardboard and scissor to make the pompom
tapestry needle

Check it out here