This is a very nice and neat way – and an easy one too – to cast on a number of stitches at the end of a row. You will need a crochet hook of about the same size as the needle you are using.

Work the row to end. Place the needle in your left hand so that the other side is facing you. If you worked a right side row, the wrong side should be facing and if you worked a wrong side row the right side should be facing.


1  2
Insert the crochet hook           Catch the yarn and pull a loop
in the last stitch on the             (= 1 stitch on the crochet hook)
left needle.


1b  2b 3b
Bring the yarn under and        Bring the crochet hook in      Pull a loop through the loop 
behind the needle.                    front of the needle and         on the crochet hook.
                                                pick up the yarn.                    (= 1 stitch more on the
…                                                                                                  needle  and 1 stitch on
…                                                                                                  the crochet hook)                                  

Repeat these 3 steps until you have cast on the desired number of stitches minus 1.

4 5
…                                               Place the stitch from the
…                                               crochet hook on the needle.

Tata, finished. Turn your work and start the row.

Now, this is for working back and forth.


In the round.

If – for example – you are working a pullover top down and you need to add stitches at the neckline to close it and start working in the round: cast on the right number of stitches, knit the first stitch from the stitches you need to join to and pass the 2nd stitch on the right needle over the knitted stitch and off the needle.

Voilà you can start working in the round.

. . . Xol . . .

Xol means ‘heart’ in wolof: the language spoken in Senegal and part of West-Africa. It is pronounced as khol, (as the X in Greek) not as ksolxol met pompom

Xol is a color block beanie with a large intarsia motif: charts for a large heart or a flower are included and if you want something else, a blank chart is added to make your own motif.

It is worked bottom up and seamlessly in the round, the length can easily be adjusted to make a beanie or a more slouchy hat. A large pompom finishes the hat. (Instructions for making a pompom in the pattern) BTW here is a link to some very funny pompoms

Intarsia in the round is not as difficult as it sounds. A richly illustrated tutorial is included in a separate pdf.

available for size KIDS, Adult S, M and L
head circumference: 48-53 / 51-56 / 54-59 / 57-63 cm (19-21” / 20-22” / 22-23.25” / 23.25-25”)

finished measurements (brim): 43 / 46 / 49.5 / 53 cm (17” / 18” / 19.5” / 21”)

finished measurements (body): 46 / 49 cm / 52.5 / 56 cm (18” / 19.5” / 20.5” / 22”)

Finished height (without the pompom) = 20/21/26/27 cm (9/9.5/10.5/10.75”) but can easily be adjusted

What you’ll need
fingering / 4 ply
Yardage for the hat without the pompom
MC1 (main color1: bottom): ± 80 m / 90 yards
MC2 (main color2: top): ± 70 m / 77 yards
CC (contrasting color): ± 30 m / 33 yards

3.25 mm (US 3) circular needle
2.5 mm (US 1½) circular needle
cardboard and scissor to make the pompom
tapestry needle

Check it out here

. . . slanted . . .

This was a real challenge and experiment in shaping. I started with the large shawl collar in 2 different rib patterns.stripe mod 7-.

Why not continue to knit sideways ? With the ribbing, maybe ? Not all of them, for sure. I wanted the body to be mainly stockinette stitch. Only a few ribbing sections than ?

As by miracle everything fell in it’s place when I continued the body. The slanted 2/2 ribbing at the bottom and at the top to shape the arm opening. It all seemed perfect, haha.
Can’t believe I came up with this construction. The body is closed at the back with contrasting 3 needle bind off’s.

stripe mod 9 -

stripe mod 4-

A slight A-line at the bottom shaped by working a few short rows.

Finally the sleeves are worked top down in the round.

Row gauge is quite important for this project as it is worked sideways. If you should make this with Superwash yarn like Wollmeise Pure for example, the cardigan will be longer (which is not too bad, I think). You can see some examples on the pattern page

Sizes: XS, S, M, L , XL, XXL
finished measurements (chest): 35.5 / 38.5 / 42.5 / 46.5 / 50.5 / 54.5 “ (90 / 98 / 108 / 118 / 128 / 138 cm )
Intended to be worn with of ± 12.5 to 20 cm / 5 to 8” of positive ease

What you’ll need
MC: ± 1250, 1350, 1470, 1600, 1750, 1880m (1370, 1500, 1620, 1750, 1920, 2060 yards) of fingering weight / 4 ply

CC: a left over of fingering weight / 4 ply
± 100 m / 110 yards

3,5 mm (US 4) circular needle
3,5 mm (US 4) straight needles
4,5 mm (US 7) needle for the 3 needle bind off
3 mm (US 2 1/2) circular needle for the sleeves
2,5 mm (US 1 1/2) circular needle
17 markers

25 sts and 39 rows stockinette stitch with the middle sized needle (3,5 mm / US 4) = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here

… winter wheat …

Winter wheat: an asymmetrical cardigan with large textured stripes and a crazy construction in fingering weight…

P mod 2

P mod button 1

Winter wheat is worked top down and sideways at the same time. The left front and the collar are worked in one piece and the top stripes wrap around the neck as a shawl. The left front falls straight and the right front falls more fluidly.

The sleeves are also worked top down with at the right side the same large stripes. The left sleeve is finished with some smaller stripes at the bottom.

The cardigan can be closed with a shawl pin or an attached I-cord with a few afterthought buttonholes can be added in the end.

Even buttoned up wrongly it looks kinda cute

P mod button det

XS, S, ML, XL, XXL: 32.5 / 36.5 / 40.5 / 44 / 48 / 52 “ (83, 93, 103, 112, 122, 132 cm)
Intended to be worn with 5 to 15 cm (2 to 6”) of positive ease
What you’ll need
fingering weight / 4 ply
You can use 4 colors as in the model or use different colors for each stripe.

fingering weight / 4 ply
total yardage:

± 1500, 1700, 1900, 2100, 2300, 2500 m
(1650, 1900, 2100, 2300, 2500, 2700 yards)

yardage as used in the model
C1 (light grey in schematic):
± 300, 325, 350, 400, 430, 460 m
(330, 360, 390, 450, 475, 510 yards)
C2 (light brown in schematic):
± 460, 510, 560, 610, 670, 720m
(510, 560, 620, 670, 740, 800 yards)
C3 (yellow in schematic):
± 360, 400, 440, 480, 525, 560m
(400, 440, 480, 525, 560, 620 yards)
C4 (dark grey in schematic):
± 360, 400, 440, 480, 525, 560m
(400, 440, 480, 525, 560, 620 yards)

A few left overs of contrasting colors for the garter ridges between the large stripes

3,5 mm (US 4) circular needle
3,5 mm (US 4) straight needles
3 or 4 large buttons (diameter: ± 2.5 cm / 1”

24 sts and 36 rows stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)

Check it out here

. . . happy scrap . . .

Crazy and striped … haha

happy yellow 11

Happy scrap is a randomly striped pullover (perfect to work up all the little leftovers in your stash) with a circular yoke, a gentle A-line and long fitted sleeves. It is worked top down in one piece and completely seamless. Short rows are used to lengthen the neckline at the back and to shape the diamonds at the sides. These give the ‘happy scrap’ its’ high-low hem.

There is no length given because you can make the happy scrap as long or short as you prefer. The placement of the diamonds can also be chosen (high as pictured below or low as pictured above). I can very well imagine ‘happy scrap’ in a very short cropped version or as a longer tunic.

The pattern includes instructions and tips on how to work the short rows, how to work jogless stripes, weave in ends as you go, how to make a provisional cast on, and much more …

What you’ll need
Yardage depends on length of the pullover
± 900, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400, 1500m (990, 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400, 1500, 1600 yards) of sport weight/ 5 ply

3,5 mm (US 4) circular needle
3 mm (US 2 1/2) circular needle
crochet hook for the provisional cast-on

2 markers
1 removable marker

XXS, XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL: finished measurements (chest) 26.5 / 30.5 / 38 / 41.5 / 45.5 / 49 “ (68, 78, 88, 96, 106, 116, 125 cm). Choose the size closest to your high bust measurement (just under the armpits

24 sts and 35 rows stockinette stitch with the larger needle = 10 x 10 cm (4”x4”)


The pattern is split in 2 pdfs: one for the small sizes and one for the larger sizes

Happy scrap is also available in Danish. Thanks to the lovely Asta-Denmark on Ravelry.
The Danish text is in separate pdfs but all the illustrations are in the original English version, so you will have to check the English version for the schematics and illustrations.

Check it out here

. . . koraal . . .


You see why it is called koraal ? (koraal is dutch for coral)

corail 3

The special cabling and the color of that gorgeous color reminds me of coral reefs. The yarn is Shilasdair Luxury DK / 8 ply
40% Wool, 40% Angora, 10% Camel, 10% Cashmere, 302 meters / 100 grams. It  is supersoft: wool, angora, camel, cashmere !!!. And what’s more, it is dyed naturally with plant material in a Scottish island the Isle of Skye. This colorway is dyed with madder root (meekrap in Dutch and ‘garance‘ in French), a plant that is well known for it’s coloring capacities. Look at that glow.

koraal det

Koraal is a simple  oversized cardigan worked back and forth with decorative cabled and twisted ribbing on the sleeves and body.



It starts with a provisional cast on at the back (see here for my favorite provisional cast on). Both sleeves and the back are worked in one piece.

corail 4

Stitches are bound off for the neck at the back and cast on for the fronts. The sleeves are shaped using short rows. Once the sleeves are finished they are closed by a 3 needle bind off and the body is worked top down in one piece.
Apart from sewing buttons and weaving in ends, there is no finishing to do.

corail 6

Oversized: intended to be worn with 15 to 25 cm (6 to 10”) of positive ease (chest)
finished measurements (chest): 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 63 “ (100, 110, 120, 130, 140, 150, 160 cm)

What you’ll need
± 950, 1000, 1050, 1150, 1250, 1400, 1550m (1040, 1100, 1150, 1260, 1370, 1550, 1700 yards) of DK / 8 ply.
Choose a yarn with some drape for the best effect

4 mm (US 6) circular needle or
4 mm (US 6) straight needles
crochet hook for the provisional cast-on

11 buttons (diameter: ± 1.5 cm / 0.5”
(size XXL and XXXL: 12 buttons)

4 markers

20 sts and 30 rows stockinette stitch

Check it out here

how to … CROCHET CAST ON …

a pretty and easy way to make a provisional cast on … or not

This is my favorite provisional cast on. It is very easy and it is very neat looking and that is the reason why it doesn’t need to be only provisional. It could be used as a regular cast on that matches a knit bind off and it is a very neat way to cast on stitches at the end of a row. (I will write about that in another post. Finally here it is).

To make a provisional cast on you will need a knitting needle, some smooth scrap yarn that is not too hairy and doesn’t split and a crochet hook in the same size as the needle.




slip-knot  hold cr h ifo needle pull loop
With some waste yarn              Hold the knitting needle in      Pull a loop through the 
make a slip-knot on the            your left hand, and the           loop on the crochet hook.
crochet hook.                            crochet hook in your right
…                                                hand, bring the yarn under
…                                                and behind the needle.

1 stitch = 1 stitch cast on (on the needle) + 1 stitch on the crochet hook

cast on 1 pull loop 2

Bring the yarn under and        Bring the crochet hook in
behind the needle.                   front of the needle and pick up
…                                               the yarn. Pull a loop through 
…                                               the loop on the crochet hook.

Repeat these 2 steps until you have cast on the desired number of stitches.

extra ch sts extra ch sts 2
Don’t break the yarn yet.         Break the yarn and tie off.
Make a few more chain           It is on this side you will
stitches with the crochet         start unraveling the provisio-
hook off the knitting needle.   nal cast-on to recapture the
…                                                stitches.


Now you can start knitting. Introduce your working yarn and start the row.



unzip 1  unzip 2
Start at the chain end and        Pull on the tail to unzip 
untie the tail                              the chain.

unzip 3  unzip 4

Gently pull on each chain       and place each recaptured
stitch                                         stitch on the needle.

Repeat these 2 steps for every stitch.

unzip 5  unzip 6
If you were working in the         Place that loop on the needle.
round, the last stitch doesn’t
look like a real stitch , it is
only a loop.


Now you are all done, all stitches are on the needle. Ready to work whatever finishing you had in mind.